Posts in Italy
Mauro Veglio: A Single Vineyard Expression Specialist

The Mauro Veglio wines - from husband-and-wife team Mauro and Daniela along with their nephew, Alessandro - are elegant wines focused primarily on single vineyard expressions. Of their six Baroli (the Rocche dell'Annunziata not tasted here), only the Barolo DOCG is a made from a combination of vineyards and villages. Their aim is to release wines ready to drink - not an easy feat to achieve thanks to Nebbiolo's firm tannins. However, they certainly did hit the bullseye with their stylistic aim in three - possibly four - of the wines in the 2017 vintage.

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Make Haste to Buy the Attems Pinot Grigio Ramato 2020!

I've been following Attems Pinot Grigio (non-Ramato) for over a decade. It is always strikingly good, true to variety and place and well-distributed. For so many reasons, it is an easy-to-recommend wine in this country, where distribution is highly unpredictable. So, I was deeply interested in the chance to taste the Ramato, or copper, wine, which is made as a skin-contact rosé. It has been produced for years, but it has somehow evaded my glass. Not so this year, and thank goodness for that!

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A Collection of Wines Tasted Recently

Wines arrive constantly at my doorstep and occasionally, I end up with wines that didn't fit into a tasting elsewhere that still merit write-ups. Such is the case here, with both of the reds being personal favorites.

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Caposaldo Another Very Good Prosecco DOC Rosé Brut

The new Prosecco DOC Rosé category continues to impress. The Consorzio's rigid standards for Rosé DOC - between the two exclusive varieties allowed, the quantities required of each variety, the vintage prerequisite, the longer fermentation period and the narrower residual sugar allowances - are creating a more homogenous category that is easier to navigate than the (non-rosé) Prosecco DOC category. I'm happy to report that the Caposaldo entry in the field performs nicely. Of notable interest is the fact that 100% of the grapes are hand-picked.

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Italian Rosatos: a New Way to Rosé

Italian rosatos are incredibly distinctive in that the vast majority of them come from uniquely Italian varieties. While you might - if you look hard - find a rosato made from Montepulciano made outside "the boot" of Italy, it's unlikely you'll find one made from Negroamaro. Plus, I guarantee you there are none made of Susumaniello or Rondinella. So, pop open a bottle of one - or all - of these and discover a whole new flavor range of rosé wine!

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Distinctive Sardinia and the Wines of Vigne Surrau

Sardinia is deeply distinctive. The island is detached sentimentally from its legal association with Italy. The languages spoken there today - including Italian - reveal its rich history, including isolation and invasion. The local Sarda language is considered to be the closest Romance language to "vulgar", or non-classical, Latin, and a dialect of Catalan is spoken in the northwestern corner of the island. Vinously, the grape varieties are historically Spanish.

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Merlot - Always Friendly, Never One to Tout Its Popularity

As hard as it may be for some to believe, Merlot is a much-loved grape. The Sideways effect on Merlot at this point feels almost as distant as the 60 Minutes effect on red wine in general almost three decades ago. Kids born the year that the movie Sideways hit the indie screens (2004) will be legal drinkers in the USA in just four years. They and many other young sippers don't care that Merlot was sidelined - by a small portion of the drinking population - for a fairly short while. They are going to drink what they like, just like many other drinkers have been all along.

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Mandrarossa: Studying Sicily

Mandrarossa is based near Sicily's southwestern coast near the town of Menfi. In 2020, over twenty years since its founding, which itself happened only after years of painstaking research, the winery expanded to begin gathering grapes from two more world-class sources: Etna and Pantelleria. The wines are clean, precise and soulful. For the second time, I've come away highly impressed from my tasting.

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Corvezzo Prosecco - Organic to the Core

Corvezzo makes exclusively organic Prosecco, over half of which is estate grown. This bold choice was made by third generation "happy farmer" Giovanni Corvezzo as soon as he came to work full-time at the family farm near Treviso, one of two historical centers of the Prosecco production region. Not only has the switch to organic farming given Giovanni healthier grapes with thicker skins good for fending off the Veneto's occasionally finicky weather, he believes the wines are tastier, too. I can't say anything about the pre-organic wines, but these certainly are good wines, especially for the money.

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Castelvecchi: Making Delicious Wines Vine-by-Vine

Castelvecchi undertakes a plant-by-plant approach in its vineyards, working in lockstep with a team from the University of Milan led by Leonardo Valentini. Two vineyards in particular at this 22-hectare estate are source of great pride. First is Le Madri, whose 50-plus-year-old vines serve as propagation material for replanting the rest of the vineyards. Second is the Vivaio vineyard, a small plot hosting a collection of Sangiovese clones collected over the centuries.

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Bortolomiol Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Trio

I am a fan of the Bortolomiol wines for their sharp lens into the interaction of the Glera grape and terroir through a single vintage. The focus on quality and precision is key, and the overall approach helps to gives sparkling wine lovers a true glimpse into what is possible with this traditional grape in this historic region.

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It's All in the Details at Enrico Serafino

With a casual glance at the symbol on the front of the Enrico Serafino label, and you might think you're looking at a drawing of a grape cluster. Look more closely and apply some imagination; now you may see that this is the cross-section of a conch shell, symbolizing the Piedmontese soils that were once under the sea.

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Giusti: Where the Winery Becomes the Landscape

Hailing from a stunning new winery built in the shape of the surrounding, undulating hills with vines planted atop the roof, the innovative architecture certainly fits with founder Ermenegildo Giusti's construction business background. This striking building is not the only on the property; just 1,100 yards away is the Abbey of Sant'Eustachio, a Romanesque structure built in 1000 CE. The pair create a compelling reason to visit and take a stroll through the vineyards with a glass of wine in hand.

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Tuscan Wines That Go Easy on the Wallet

As food prices continue to creep up, it's nice to know that good wines are still available for a Jackson. (Or, maybe soon it will be a Tubman!) All three of these red blends taste delectably of Tuscan sunshine, and they all hail from highly acclaimed estates.

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Peter Zemmer:  Wines from the Dolomites

For almost 100 years, the Zemmer family has been making wines in southwestern Alto Adige in the small town of Cortina. This is the last town of German speakers before reaching the Trentino border, and it is uniquely positioned on the valley floor rather than perched in the hillsides. The winery's website has a brilliant, interactive aerial view where visitors can take in the natural beauty of the Dolomites while observing where the Zemmer vineyards lie.

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