Mandrarossa: Studying Sicily

Mandrarossa is based near Sicily's southwestern coast near the town of Menfi. In 2020, over twenty years since its founding, which itself happened only after years of painstaking research, the winery expanded to begin gathering grapes from two more world-class sources: Etna and Pantelleria. 

The wines are clean, precise and soulful. For the second time, I've come away highly impressed from my tasting. The roster of contributors is impressive: Mimmo De Gregorio and Filippo Buttafuoco, oversee the winemaking with the oenology consultant Alberto Antonini. Additionally, the charismatic Chilean Pedro Parra, collaborates on the micro-terroir studies and geologists from the University of Palermo have delved into studies on the Mandrarossa territory. This is definitely a property to watch.

Whites
91
Mandrarossa 2018 Bertolino Soprano Sicilia DOC 13%
Initially unrelenting, with aeration and warmer temperatures (I suggested not serving this too cold when I tasted the 2017 Bertolino Soprano), this pure Grillo unleashes peach pit, sea salt and straw onto the medium-bodied, savory palate. The palate is also starchily textured from the limestone on which the vines grow. The mouthcoating texture is accented with punchy, refreshing acidity. This tastes riper and more ready-to-go than the 2017 did last year.
Drink: 2021-23

89
Mandrarossa 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Urra di Mare Sicilia DOC 12%
This is a demure, elegant Sauvignon Blanc with understated strains of yellow grapefruit, pomelo and celery on the nose. Though light in body, a lovely viscosity gently coats the palate. Vivacious acidity delivers excellent refreshment. There are surprising and intriguing quinine and juniper notes accompanying the saline-tinged, modest finish. Serve at cellar rather than refrigerator temperature so that the aromas can really blossom.
Drink: 2021-22 

Reds
91
Mandrarossa 2019 Timperosse Terre Siciliane IGT 13%
I was surprised that this Petit Verdot was bottled in a Burgundy-shaped bottle. Most varietal Petit Verdot is bold, occasionally even brutish, juice that comes in a Bordeaux-shaped bottle. The Timperosse is of a very different nature though it is structurally vigorous with ample, tugging texture, good acidic tension and a dry, earthy finish. Rather than the structure, it is more the concentrated, black currant and flinty flavors that help me recognize the variety. Savory yet ample in fruit, this should be received with enthusiasm.
Drink: 2021-25 

90
Mandrarossa 2019 Bonera Sicilia DOC 13.5%
A beguiling blend of Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Franc, this wholesome, mouthfilling wine is a smart blend of Italian and French varieties that let Sicilian verve show through. The nose smells of candied cherries, vanilla soda and underbrush. Then, the palate transforms into another dimension. The full-frontal fruit attack turns dry, savory and well-measured on the lingering finish. Showing good depth and lots of youthful intrigue, this will make many friends.
Drink: 2021-24 

90
Mandrarossa 2017 Terre del Sommacco Sicilia DOC 14%
Brooding and almost obstinate when first opened, this Nero d'Avola benefits greatly from 30 to 60 minutes in a decanter. Exotic African spices, sun-drenched lavender and mulberries surface. On the palate, dried red cherries and shriveled plums come to the fore. The fervent, perky acidity and tannins reminiscent of slightly over-steeped tea giving some nip in the center palate. Full-bodied and serious with a solid finish of red fruits, earth and flint, this is distinctive expression of Nero d'Avola. Given its hesitancy once opened, it's worth giving it a few more years. It's interesting that this 2017 is a current release, when most Nero d'Avolas on the market are younger.
Drink: 2022-25 

89
Mandrarossa 2018 Nero d'Avola Cartagho Sicilia DOC 14%
Bold and boisterous, this needs oxygen and time to open up. Feisty red plums, dried cranberries and gingerbread spice lead the nose as the wine opens up. The palate is crunchy with revved-up acidity. The measured tannins smoothed by hints of ganache give this pleasant drinkability. The slightly bitter back palate is a bit edgy. Modest in layers and complexity, there is nonetheless excellent concentration. While approachable now, I'd give this a few years. It will surely blossom!
Drink: 2023-25