Posts in Chardonnay
The Hilt & Refrigerated Sunshine

"We have refrigerated sunshine. It is sunny all the time, but it is never hot." The Hilt winemaker, Matt Dees, was referring to the one-two punch of the cold Pacific Ocean mere miles away and the mountains just south of The Hilt vineyards that block warmer, more southerly influences. I had tasted The Hilt Pinots before and found them not just crunchy, but almost raw. With such a vivid vineyard description, it certainly was easier to understand the wines' dispositions.

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The Rise of Catena: Observation, Hard Work & Calculated Risk

Catena is an imposing family name in Argentinian wine. The first three generations built the initial and incredible, international reputation of the Catena wines. However, it is the fourth-generation vintner, Laura Catena, who is building an even bolder, bigger platform for the Catena reputation. How so? Laura is thinking about more than wine. Still, she works through the same lenses as those who carried the family name before her: observation, hard work and the willingness to take calculated risks.

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The Dynamic Evolution of Domaine Courtault-Michelet

Things move quickly at Domaine Courtault-Michelet. That's unusual on the sleepy hillsides surrounding Chablis. However, once you meet Stéphanie Courtault, the second-generation winemaker now leading the estate with her husband, Vincent Michelet, it's not so surprising. She's full of energy and enthusiasm - and with good reason considering how quickly her family's estate has made a name for itself and how rapidly it has grown.

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Jordan Winery - Sonoma's Reliable Class Act with a Newly Invigorated Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2019 vintage marks Jordan Chardonnay's 40th anniversary. As ever, the Jordan Chardonnay wildly over-delivers in quality and price with this decade-marking, birthday vintage. I can't believe the winery still only charges for $35 for this class act, but I'm very happy that such an attractive and age-worthy Sonoma Chardonnay is available at such an (all things relative) incredibly accessible price.

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Charles Heidsieck Re-Introduces Its Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage Champagne

Charles Heidsieck made its first Blanc de Blancs in 1949. This non-vintaged cuvée, however, disappeared from the house's line-up until its reintroduction in 2018. This is composed of 2012 Côte des Blancs Chardonnay with 25% reserve wines averaging five years old. Disgorged in 2018, it received 10 g/L of dosage. It is a wine with captivating flair.

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A Collection of Wines Tasted Recently

Wines arrive constantly at my doorstep and occasionally, I end up with wines that didn't fit into a tasting elsewhere that still merit write-ups. Such is the case here, with both of the reds being personal favorites.

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Jules Taylor: Wine is for Great Memories

I met Jules Taylor on a buyers' trip to New Zealand many (err...many) years back when she was making wines for Kim Crawford Wines. An MW Candidate at the time, I was in heaven learning all sorts of technical winemaking details from her. I didn't know then, but she was just about to launch full-time into her side winemaking project with her husband, George Elworthy.

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The Oldest Vines in the Russian River Valley: Olivet Lane Vineyard

Operating under Winery License No. 4 since the repeal of Prohibition, the Pellegrini family of Sonoma has Pinot Noir vines that are about to mark their 50th birthday. The oldest in the Russian River Valley, the Olivet Lane Vineyard's vines show up as single vineyard designates on many prestigious producers' labels: Williams Selyem, Merry Edwards, MacRostie and Gary Farrell among them. In contrast to the star-struck prices of some of those cuvées, the Pellegrini family's wines offer better value at the high-end.

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Chalk Hill Chardonnays: Astounding Purity & Grace

In 2022, Sonoma's iconic Chalk Hill Estate will celebrate 40 years since founder Fred Furth first spotted from his airplane the property's natural amphitheater on the eastern side of the Russian River Valley. The property - and then in 1983, the AVA - were named for the area's white, powdery and volcanic soils. Though a sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley, Chalk Hill is warmer because it sits above the cooling fog experience throughout the rest of the Russian River.

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Reconnecting with Wente Vineyards and Especially with the Wente Clone of Chardonnay

I recently reconnected with the Wentes of Wente Vineyards for the inaugural World Chardonnay Day webinar. The Wente Family is known for its "Wente clone" of Chardonnay, which is a highly sought-after heritage clone in California.

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The Ambitious Enate Bodega: A Scrumptious Nine-Year-Old Cabernet Sauvignon

I was taken by Enate's Chardonnay 234 last December, so I was very eager to taste some wines from the bodega this spring. As with the vintage 2019 Chardonnay, the value on offer here is tremendous. I love the inclination of Spanish wineries to release wines when they are ready to drink. This is a fine example of a bold red wine that is brilliant now and that would have shown very differently if released on a more "modern" schedule of 12 to 18 months post-harvest.

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Windracer & Exceptional Passion

Barbara Banke of Jackson Family Wines does nothing that isn't infused deeply with passion. So when I heard that she entered a partnership with a long-standing friend, Peggy Furth - formerly of Chalk Hill Estates - to develop a line of wines called Windracer, I was immediately curious. These are two class-act, business-savvy women, who earned their stripes and their very considerable paychecks on their own, well before they became part of California's North Coast elite vintners. I knew that the wines and terroir they chose would be distinctive.

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Nyetimber Brilliance - Blanc de Blancs 2013

I've had the pleasure to get to know Brad Greatrix at the International Wine Challenge over the last eight years. Also, I've had many opportunities at the same competition to get to know English Sparkling Wine fairly well. Of course, the two spheres intersect.

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In Honor of Chardonnay Day, Some Wines from One of My Favorite Chardonnay Places: Chablis

I often tease my winemaker friends in Burgundy’s Côte d’or that my favorite Chardonnay is Blanc de Blancs Champagne. I get a pass on that, though sometimes with a hesitant, sideways glance or sometimes with an eye roll. What I don’t dare say is that I think the most unique expressions of Chardonnay come from Chablis…. This is precisely why Chablis is one of my favorite Chardonnay places on the planet.

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Core FEL 2018 Releases & the Story of the Savory Vineyard

FEL focuses on Anderson Valley, which is packed with contrast - like Florence's wines apparently, despite its small size. The Anderson Valley is just slightly longer than the island of Manhattan! For every mile that one moves toward the Pacific coast from Boonville at the valley's eastern edge, there is the loss of one degree Fahrenheit from the average daytime temperature. There is a five week spread between picking in Boonville and Navarro, at the valley's western point! As winemaker Ryan Hodgins - who grew up outside the Willamette Valley but transplanted to California in 2002 - said, the Anderson Valley is nature's tipping point between "the feel" of the rest of California to the south and Oregon to the north.

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The Chemisty and Individuality of Chehalem and Stoller

n early 2018, Chehalem and Stoller became fully interconnected through a single owner, though the two properties retained their distinct personalities. The Chemistry label soon brought them together to make a third, easily accessible wine label - both in style and in price. Here's the latest...do NOT miss the "*" wines!

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Bryn Mawr: Vineyards on a "High Hill"

Hailing from small lots planted on rocky, volcanic terrain at high elevation, the wind-blown vineyards of Bryn Mawr produce energetic wines. Appropriately, Bryn Mawr is Welsh for "high hill". Winemaker Rachel Rose leads both the vineyard and the winemaking program with the aim of integrating the natural world and its effects into her wines. These wines salute approximately the one-decade mark since Jon and Kathy Lauer purchased the 26-acre estate.

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