Mauro Veglio: A Single Vineyard Expression Specialist

The Mauro Veglio wines - from husband-and-wife team Mauro and Daniela along with their nephew, Alessandro - are elegant wines focused primarily on single vineyard expressions. Of their six Baroli (the Rocche dell'Annunziata not tasted here), only the Barolo DOCG is a made from a combination of vineyards and villages. Their aim is to release wines ready to drink - not an easy feat to achieve thanks to Nebbiolo's firm tannins. 

However, they certainly did hit the bullseye with their stylistic aim in three - possibly four - of the wines in the 2017 vintage. The first three of these even drink nicely in the summer. This is meaningful to my palate as, when I drink Barolo in the summer, it tends to be more mature Barolo, whose feisty, youthful structures have quieted down enough to mesh well with summer's typically lighter fare.

The 2017 vintage is the first in which the original Mauro Veglio property merged with Alessandro's business. At age 35, Alessandro took charge of the 2017 vintage, so this is his first big "fingerprint" at the winery. According to Alessandro, little changed save a slight decrease in new oak barrel use. The wines are all easy to recommend, and the first offers especially good value, too. 

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Mauro Veglio 2017 Barolo 14.5% $40
The average age for these Nebbiolo vines is 35 years old. 

Scented with dried flowers and dried raspberries, this is a relatively easy-going Barolo with nicely tailored tannins and lifting, integrated acidity. The tart red fruits on the palate are light and airy. The finish is fairly brief, but this very pretty and rather light-weight (despite the surprising 14.5% abv) Barolo is very pleasantly ready to enjoy now.
Drink: 2021-25 

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Mauro Veglio 2017 Barolo Arborina $60
Arborina is a fresher Barolo style thanks to its southeastern exposition in La Morra.

Again, "pretty" is one of the first words to come to mind. This filigree, elegant bottling offers rhubarb and red currant flavors with undertones of dried leaves and tobacco. While chirping with acidity, it has surprisingly tight, dry tannins. The good finish shows mineral and dusty earth notes. It drinks nicely now but will easily improve.
Drink: 2021-27 

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Mauro Veglio 2017 Barolo Gattera 14.5% $60
The Gattera tends to be the gentlest wines because this is their warmest vineyard. 

The most forthcoming on the nose, this - slightly - more deeply-colored bottling shows dried tomato, strawberry and red plum tinged with menthol and eucalyptus. The tannins again are vigorous, but here they are seamless. Plus, the perky acidity lifts the back palate while also highlighting those tannins. More robust than the first two yet still rather medium in fruit concentration, the lingering and mineral finish adds notes of tea leaves and a dusting of cocoa powder.
Drink: 2021-29 

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Mauro Veglio 2017 Barolo Castelletto 14.5% $60
Hailing from Monforte d'Alba and sitting at higher elevations than the other vineyards - 300-400 meters versus 250-300 meters for the others, the vines sit in sandstone soils that deliver a more tannic result.  

This is a markedly robust wine with solid fruit concentration and a broad, intense palate feel. The firm, strapping tannins are nicely matched by equally vigorous, crisp acidity. Tasting of red currant, Damson plum and blackberry, the long, lightly drying finish brings in notes of pencil shavings and cigar wrapper. This will benefit from time in bottle while the first three wines are enjoyed!
Drink: 2025-35 

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Mauro Veglio 2017 Barolo Paiagallo 14.5% $90
Alessandro personally rented this vineyard in 2016 before joining Mauro and Daniela. In 2017, Paiagallo saw two days of cold maceration at 8-10° C, whole berry use and the longest fermentation of all the Baroli. Pleased with this result, the other single vineyards also were crafted by initiating a cold maceration and using whole berries starting in 2018. 

This 2017 Barolo is distinctly different from the other single vineyards, yet it combines their elements. There is the dense fruit core on the Paiagallo with the generous and floral aromatics of the three others. This wine smells of Rainier cherries, dried peaches, crushed autumn leaves and spice drawer. Smooth but firm tannins frame the full-bodied palate while mouthwatering acidity provides refreshment. With air, a bit of muskiness comes through, too. While approachable now for those that like heftier wines, this has more to offer with some bottle age.
Drink: 2023-33