It's All in the Details at Enrico Serafino

With a casual glance at the symbol on the front of the Enrico Serafino label, and you might think you're looking at a drawing of a grape cluster. Look more closely and apply some imagination; now you may see that this is the cross-section of a conch shell, symbolizing the Piedmontese soils that were once under the sea.  

Sparkling
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Enrico Serafino 2016 Alta Langa Brut Oudeis 12.5% $28
Enrico Serafino is a specialist in the production of high quality Metodo Classico sparkling wines under the Alta Langa DOCG. The “Oudeis” bottling, named after Odysseus, is a compelling blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay that benefits from 3.5 years of bottle aging on the lees.  

Gleaming yellow with golden streaks, the bouquet offers beeswax and pencil shavings. Like the nose, the palate is reserved with only inklings of yellow fruits. Overall, the wine has a delightful bouillon, savory character that complements its bracingly dry attack and clean, lightly salty finish. A half-empty bottle showed very well on the second day, with no obvious diminishment of the supremely fine and still generously evident bubbles. The bright finish makes this wine very moreish, especially when paired with refined seafood dishes. Very classy and one for the self-annointed "acid heads".
Drink: 2020-23 

White
90
Enrico Serafino 2019 Gavi di Gavi Grifo del Quartaro 12.5% $17
Named “Grifo del Quartaro” after an antique coin used by the Genovese Lords who were the original landowners of the vineyards of Gavi, this pure Cortese is polished and vinous. Juicy on the attack with racy acidity balancing the medium viscosity, the flavors of blanched almonds, Damson plum and star fruit are finely concentrated. The lightly salty, dry finish delivers good length.
Drink: 2021-24

Reds
91
Enrico Serafino 2015 Barolo Monclivio 14% $46
Enrico Serafino holds onto an interesting "grandfather clause". Because the winery has made Barolo for over 140 years - long before DOC/DOCG laws were considered, it is allowed to make its wine in Canale d'Alba, outside the Barolo zone.  

Fresh and youthful but disarmingly approachable, this classically scented wine will be hard to age given its immediate appeal. The attack and mid-palate are supple with sweet red fruits and rose petal notes, and the tannins are absolutely gilded. They are a great relief to those who struggled through some of the early 2013 and 2014 Baroli from a wide assortment of producers. This is a delight! The acidity is noticeable but integrated, and the lingering, smooth finish focuses on a dusty earth top note accented by dried lavender. This is aged 24 months in barriques and large barrels.
Drink: 2020-25

89
Enrico Serafino 2018 Picotener Nebbiolo Il Nebbiolo Dimenticato 14.5% $25
Nicotener is a biotype of Nebbiolo. Apparently, it has a difficult nature and is rarely cultivated, hence the "Il Nebbiolo Dimenticato", or the forgotten Nebbiolo, notation on the label.

Elegant, floral and almost hesitant in its restrained aromas, this shy but enticing wine is ready to enjoy. The red plums and mulberries on the palate are complemented by drying rose petals and anise. The mildly grippy tannins are nicely juxtaposed by the elevated but not pronounced acidity. Everything seems perfectly and effortlessly in place. Alas, the modest finish is a bit too quick. Hopefully this changes as the vine age increases. Made entirely of the Picotener biotype, this is aged 12 months in large wood casks.  
Drink: 2020-23