I often tease my winemaker friends in Burgundy’s Côte d’or that my favorite Chardonnay is Blanc de Blancs Champagne. I get a pass on that, though sometimes with a hesitant, sideways glance or sometimes with an eye roll. What I don’t dare say is that I think the most unique expressions of Chardonnay come from Chablis…. This is precisely why Chablis is one of my favorite Chardonnay places on the planet.
Read MoreIf you're not familiar with the underlying characteristics of German geography, it may be helpful to know that the Pfalz is sometimes called the "Tuscany of Germany", thanks to its southern position and ample sunshine. Clearly, this is a region that needs rosé, and by the taste of this one, we're lucky they don't drink it all themselves!
Read MoreAdrien Surain - with his two uncles - is making wines in the spirit of what I dubbed "Today's Bordeaux" in a report on affordable Bordeaux wines that I began a few years back. Eye-catching labels are paired with fruit-driven wines priced at very accessible prices. (Those listed below are approximate were the wines to be found in the US market.) I love the packaging, the fresh perspective and the humor, and I wish Château Surain much success in this new era.
Read MoreFEL focuses on Anderson Valley, which is packed with contrast - like Florence's wines apparently, despite its small size. The Anderson Valley is just slightly longer than the island of Manhattan! For every mile that one moves toward the Pacific coast from Boonville at the valley's eastern edge, there is the loss of one degree Fahrenheit from the average daytime temperature. There is a five week spread between picking in Boonville and Navarro, at the valley's western point! As winemaker Ryan Hodgins - who grew up outside the Willamette Valley but transplanted to California in 2002 - said, the Anderson Valley is nature's tipping point between "the feel" of the rest of California to the south and Oregon to the north.
Read Moren early 2018, Chehalem and Stoller became fully interconnected through a single owner, though the two properties retained their distinct personalities. The Chemistry label soon brought them together to make a third, easily accessible wine label - both in style and in price. Here's the latest...do NOT miss the "*" wines!
Read MoreThere's nothing like bucking the trend to attract attention. Unsurprisingly, when I read about Quinta d'Aguieira focusing on Touriga Nacional in a region - Bairrada - dominated by Baga, I was hooked. Moreover, the estate formerly was better known for its high quality white wines; this in a region known almost exclusively for reds! Additionally, I love seeing wines released with some bottle age. That's the case here with these inaugural releases, and the estate will continue this pattern to show more nuanced expressions of Touriga Nacional and Maria Gomes. The 2021 launch of these new wines show there is reason to be excited by the Arco d'Aguieira Red 2016 and Arco d'Aguieira White 2017.
Read MoreThis quartet of limited-edition, Tío Pepe sherries is sublime. Their complexity to value ratio is sky-high, especially with the Quatros Palmas Fino. Whether as sets or as individual bottles - and especially the Quatros Palmas, these wines should be destined to be collectors' items. Alas, they are bottled in clear bottles, which allow us to see the color gradations deepen from Una to Quatros but do nothing to protect the wine from improper light exposure. Perhaps the expectation is that those in possession of these gems will know how to store and handle them. If they can resist them, that is.
Read MoreCasa Paladin makes truly striking rosé - both still and bubbly. The Pinot Grigio rosé is particularly fun for its play on Pinot Grigio's natural pink and gray clusters, meriting a favorite notation "*". The packaging of all these wines is striking, too, especially the Prosecco bottles.
Read MoreI have dabbled little (meaning few than a few dozen wines tasted) in New Jersey wines, so maybe I shouldn't have been as surprised as I was to receive an invitation to taste a selection of the Garden State's Blaufränkisch (aka Lemberger, Limberger, Kékfrankos, Frankovka). A fan of Austrian Blaufränkisch, I couldn't miss the chance to taste these wines! The virtual presentation was moderated by the distinguished José Vouillamoz, co-author of Wine Grapes. The entire experience was fascinating, and two wines in particular were stars: the Beneduce Vineyards and the Sharrott Winery bottlings.
Read MoreTwo years since its introduction to the US market, the Domaine Bousquet Virgen ("virgin" in English) line has expanded from one to three reds. Tasting these two, it's no surprise because the wines deliver vivacious, fresh fruit with good structural balance for a smart SRP of only $13. Moreover, the attractive, brightly-colored and elegant labels make an impact that aligns with the wines' motto of making earth-friendly - even vegan-friendly, wines with only naturally occurring sulfites. Hence, the wines proudly bear a USDA Organic label as well as a "No Added Sulfites" assertion.
Read MoreCastelvecchi undertakes a plant-by-plant approach in its vineyards, working in lockstep with a team from the University of Milan led by Leonardo Valentini. Two vineyards in particular at this 22-hectare estate are source of great pride. First is Le Madri, whose 50-plus-year-old vines serve as propagation material for replanting the rest of the vineyards. Second is the Vivaio vineyard, a small plot hosting a collection of Sangiovese clones collected over the centuries.
Read MoreI am a fan of the Bortolomiol wines for their sharp lens into the interaction of the Glera grape and terroir through a single vintage. The focus on quality and precision is key, and the overall approach helps to gives sparkling wine lovers a true glimpse into what is possible with this traditional grape in this historic region.
Read MoreHailing from small lots planted on rocky, volcanic terrain at high elevation, the wind-blown vineyards of Bryn Mawr produce energetic wines. Appropriately, Bryn Mawr is Welsh for "high hill". Winemaker Rachel Rose leads both the vineyard and the winemaking program with the aim of integrating the natural world and its effects into her wines. These wines salute approximately the one-decade mark since Jon and Kathy Lauer purchased the 26-acre estate.
Read MoreTime flies when you're drinking good wines, especially the Rieslings of Ernst ("Ernie") Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle's Bob Bertheau - whether those are made independently or together. Ernie is from Germany's Mosel region while Bob is an Idaho transplant to Washington State. (NB: Bertheau left Chateau Ste. Michelle in early 2021.) This Old World-meets-New World collaboration is called Eroica, and with the 2018 vintage, Eroica celebrated the 20th anniversary of its first release. While compelling on release, these wines always age well, as seen here by the 2011.
Read MoreWith a casual glance at the symbol on the front of the Enrico Serafino label, and you might think you're looking at a drawing of a grape cluster. Look more closely and apply some imagination; now you may see that this is the cross-section of a conch shell, symbolizing the Piedmontese soils that were once under the sea.
Read MoreFew people would think to plant a vineyard for red wine in the middle of the Palomino vineyards of Jerez, which is Sherry country, on Spain's southwestern coast. Unlike the 80% of Spain's vineyards that sit at high altitudes, these vineyards near the sea sit in a sunny, intensely hot area. That didn't deter Luis Pérez from planting there in 2002. Then in 2011, he followed with another vineyard - this one planted the closest to the Mediterranean - dedicated to one of the region's old black grapes, Tintilla de Rota.
Read MoreHailing from a stunning new winery built in the shape of the surrounding, undulating hills with vines planted atop the roof, the innovative architecture certainly fits with founder Ermenegildo Giusti's construction business background. This striking building is not the only on the property; just 1,100 yards away is the Abbey of Sant'Eustachio, a Romanesque structure built in 1000 CE. The pair create a compelling reason to visit and take a stroll through the vineyards with a glass of wine in hand.
Read MoreBarbaresco tends to be a wine that needs time before it can be enjoyed, but the idea behind all of the Reversanti wines is to make them immediately enjoyable upon release. I wrote this tasting note before I looked into the winery, so I can honestly say that they have succeeded in that mission with this wine!
Read MoreThis blanc de blancs made exclusively of Chardonnay grown in the heart of Trentino is aged a minimum of five years on its second fermentation yeast lees. Distinguished and deeply flavorful, this is ready to enjoy.
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