An Eye-Opening Tasting of New Jersey Blaufränkisch
I have dabbled little (meaning fewer than a few dozen wines tasted) in New Jersey wines, so maybe I shouldn't have been as surprised as I was to receive an invitation to taste a selection of the Garden State's Blaufränkisch (aka Lemberger, Limberger, Kékfrankos, Frankovka). A fan of Austrian Blaufränkisch, I couldn't miss the chance to taste these wines!
The virtual presentation was moderated by the distinguished José Vouillamoz, co-author of Wine Grapes. While Blaufränkisch is very much a specialist planting in the US with Washington and New York leading the way, other states with Blaufränkisch vines include California, Michigan, Indiana, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island and Colorado. Incredibly, outside of its home in Eastern Europe, the largest producer of this grape named "Blue of the Franks" is Peru with at least 290 hectares (a hectare is 2.47 acres)!
The entire experience was fascinating, and two wines in particular were stars: the Beneduce Vineyards and the Sharrott Winery bottlings. I'll definitely be following New Jersey Blaufränkisch now...and I should probably be following other wines from next door, too!
91
Beneduce Vineyards 2017 Blaufränkisch Blue 2 Hunterdon County 13.5% $36
Pale cranberry in color, this wine has a pretty, vibrant nose of dried rose petals, tea leaves, turned earth and mulberries. Tasted blind, I would be resolutely in the Old World. Medium in body, the juicy, playful attack of ripe red berries is tantalizingly balanced by tangy acidity. The smoky oak is a bit overdone, but it's an overall attractive and very drinkable wine. Smooth tannins lend creaminess to the mid-palate as the finish slides into minerally tones. Serve at cellar temperature. A real treat!
Drink: 2021-25
89
Sharrott Winery 2019 Blaufränkish Coia Vineyards Outer Coastal Plain 13% $NA
Mid-depth mulberry in color, this wine has a fresh, forward aroma of mulberries and blueberries accompanied by cola and mocha. Medium-bodied with a gently plump palate, the acidity is fresh - if a bit angular - while the tannins are supple and easy. Highly drinkable, especially at cellar temperature or even with a slightly deeper chill, this wine will make many friends. This is the winery's first Blaufränkisch.
Drink: 2021-23
86
Bellview Winery 2016 Blaufränkisch Outer Coastal Plain 14.4% $28
Deep maroon with a cranberry rim, this wine's aromas are mostly tertiary. There is robust mulberry and black plum fruit core with strong overtones of peat, fallen autumn leaves and tobacco leaf. Muscular in body with a prickle of alcoholic warmth, lightly drying tannins and moderate acidity, this definitely needs to be served at cellar temperature. It opens up nicely with air. Hard to recognize this as Blaufrankisch, this is nonetheless a pleasant and nicely matured, bold red wine. The moderate finish is nicely layered. This is ready to enjoy.
Drink: 2021-22
85
Cedar Rose Vineyards 2016 Blaufränkisch Outer Coastal Plain 12.6%
Showing a deep plum black color, this wine is youthful in color yet advanced on the nose. In lockstep, the palate shows more evident evolution with pleasant aromas of fall: autumn leaves and roasted red beets. Alas, there is also an awkward, prickly acidity that, while providing a certain style of refreshment edges too closely to the vinegar side. Still, the tannins are smooth and nicely balanced. This is likely to be polarizing between the age and the vinegar effect, but it certainly is primed to drink now.
Drink: Through 2021
83
Terra Nonno 2018 Blaufränkisch French Oaked Outer Coastal Plain 12% $19
Showing a light orange tinge at the rim, this wine is very reserved in aroma. The flavors are considerably advanced, especially for a 2018, showing cigar wrapper, tea leaves and dried red fruits. Medium in body with lightly drying tannins and good acidic lift, this is fully mature. It may be the bottle, but this wine is already very tired and seems to possibly have been exposed to too much oxygen in its aging and bottling process.
Drink: Now