Quinta d'Aguieira: The Unusual Story of Touriga Nacional in Bairrada

There's nothing like bucking the trend to attract attention. Unsurprisingly, when I read about Quinta d'Aguieira focusing on Touriga Nacional in a region - Bairrada - dominated by Baga, I was hooked. Moreover, the estate formerly was better known for its high quality white wines; this in a region known almost exclusively for reds! 

Additionally, I love seeing wines released with some bottle age. That's the case here with these inaugural releases, and the estate will continue this pattern to show more nuanced expressions of Touriga Nacional and Maria Gomes. The 2021 launch of these new wines show there is reason to be excited by the Arco d'Aguieira Red 2016 and Arco d'Aguieira White 2017. Arco, by the way, is a reference to the arches connecting buildings on the property.

For a bit of background, Aveleda acquired this property best known for its high quality white wines in 1997. When António Guedes first visited the estate with his father and brother, they tasted not only a 1945 Branco (white) but also a 1940 Tinto (red), and both had aged marvelously well.

So, António decided to make the property known for its red wines, too. Having just finished his viticultural studies in Montpellier and working in Bordeaux, he was full of ideas! He began his work at Aguieira in 2002 and is only now releasing the first wines, 20 years later. Not only is Guedes the 5th generation to lead the Aveleda portfolio of Portuguese wineries, today he is also Co-CEO of the company. 

White
92
Quinta d'Aguieira 2017 ARCO d'Aguieira Vinho Branco Bairrada 12%
António feels this can easily age for 10-15 years, possibly even 20 years. He recently opened a 2005 and a 2007 and neither showed any signs of oxidation. This is 81% Maria Gomes, 17% Chardonnay, 1% Rabo de Ovelha and 1% Bical.  

Starting with a subtle nose dominated by non-fruit notes of lanolin, earth and Brazil nut, this bracingly dry white shows similar flavors on the palate, where light notes of Asian pear and ginger layer in. Youthful, lean and vigorous with racy acidity and a pleasantly searing, dry finish with marked notes of oyster shell, this is a serious wine. A light tannic edge comes from the Chardonnay due to the warmer vintage and the Chardonnay's oak aging. This white shows best when not served too cold (I prefer just a bit cooler than cellar temperature, around 50° F) and would surely benefit from decanting. 
Drink: 2021-25 

Red Wines
92*
Quinta d'Aguieira 2016 Arco d'Aguieira Vinho Tinto Bairrada 13%
For this wine, the grapes (95% Touriga Nacional, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Tinta Roriz) are picked separately but then tread by foot together in lagares then co-fermented to allow for a better integration of the wine. only 30% new oak. António likes having Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend; while it is noticeable when young, it mellows in time and makes a more balanced wine. This was aged in 30% new French oak. 

Showing a brickish rim and a bouquet of dried berries and fallen autumn leaves, this elegant, layered and smartly structured red is showing off delightful development. Showing plenty of gusto on the hearty palate, the alcohol and body are impressively medium and nicely balanced by integrated, lifting acidity and suavely textured tannins. The lasting finish pinpoints mineral tones and a light earthiness with flitting notes of mulberries and red plums. Showing nicely now at 4.5 years old, this seems to have "settled in" and will certainly improve. Bravo!
Drink: 2021-26 

92
Quinta d'Aguieira 2007 Vinho Tinto Bairrada
While not an official release, António kindly showed an older, pure Touriga Nacional aged entirely in new French oak for 15 months.  

Deeply colored and almost opaque at the core, this wine has a broad nose with a complex array of aromas. It smells of dark chocolate, strong coffee and pungent leather capped with strident  notes of freshly cut bell pepper that are reminiscent of Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium-plus in body, the alcohol is finely balanced by lifting acidity and lightly powdery tannins. The finish persists with a eucalyptus note as well as mulberry, blueberry, mocha an coconut. Drinking well now and possibly at its peak, I wouldn't delay much longer. The eucalyptus and oak characters are overtaking the fruit and the acidity seems as if it might be turning more pungent.
Drink: 2021-24