The Outstanding Tío Pepe Palmas Collection
This quartet of limited-edition, Tío Pepe sherries is sublime. Their complexity to value ratio is sky-high, especially with the Quatros Palmas Fino. Whether as sets or as individual bottles - and especially the Quatros Palmas, these wines should be destined to be collectors' items. Alas, they are bottled in clear bottles, which allow us to see the color gradations deepen from Una to Quatros but do nothing to protect the wine from improper light exposure. Perhaps the expectation is that those in possession of these gems will know how to store and handle them. If they can resist them, that is.
The Palma designation comes from the two-century-old tradition of chalk marking on Tío Pepe fino barrels in the González-Byass bodega in Jerez. The more Palma chalk marks, the more finessed the wine inside. The collection shows the aging variations and potential in these exceptional Palomino Fino wines. All wines are bottled without filtration or clarification.
First released in 2011, the Palmas Collection is a collaboration between the Gonzáles-Byass Master Blender Antonio Flores and an annually-selected, esteemed wine professional. Flores was joined in 2020 by Ferrán Centelles, a leading Spanish sommelier, author and journalist. All of these wines were bottled on 22 October 2020.
Nota bene: While I usually make a point of consuming a bottle of Fino Sherry in a day or two, these have held up very well over several weeks having been sparged with WinePrO2's neutral preservation gas and placed back in my wine fridge. However, I recommend drinking them up, and they are pretty hard to resist anyway. My very short-term "aging" of these was an experiment in hopes of drawing out the enjoyment of these beauties.
Furthermore but separately, while the Una and Dos should be enjoyed lightly chilled, the Tres and Quatros show better at slightly warmer than cellar temperatures.
91
Una Palma Fino 15.5% $36.99
Slected from three casks of Tío Pepe that maintained a "good layer of flor" despite being more than six-years-old.
Golden yellow in color, this smells of salted, roasted nuts, butterscotch and flan. While generous in body, the palate is neither heavy - despite the medium acidity - nor spirity. In fact, the fortification is seamlessly integrated. Pungently savory and salty on the palate with a light hint of glycerol, the finish hangs on with an assertive, minerally fervor.
Drink: 2021-24
93
Dos Palmas Fino 15.5% $43.99
Selected from an array of eight-year-old Tío Pepe casks that experienced extended aging under flor.
Deep yellow with light gold inflections, this savory, salty, nuanced and vibrant fino is beautifully pure and fascinating to taste. The nose smells of hay, corn and corn husk. There's a suprising fruit character here, too. Asian pear and yellow tomato deliver a fascinating swirl of flavors. The entry is as soft as silk and the palate shows an surprisingly vivid, mouthwatering acidity to balance its light fruit succulence. As the sip disappears, it turns crisp and resolutely dry with heaps of Spanish almonds on the resounding finish.
Drink: 2021-24
95
Tres Palmas Fino 16% $78.99
Selected from a single cask of ten-year-old Tío Pepe, "brought to the limit of biological aging".
Clearly even more refined than the Dos, this wine shows more layers of flavors, more evident concentration and more varied flavors in the lingering finish. With time and aeration, fascinating aromas of salted melon, dried yellow tomato and ginger candy appear. Though only a half a percentage point in alcohol higher, this feels much fuller in body than the Dos. Still, there is no evident spirity character until a bit of bite surfaces on the long finish. There is solid acidity, lightly pressing tannins and excellent overall vigor to give this wine ample freshness and moreishness.
Drink: 2021-26
97
Quatros Palmas Amontillado 21.5% $107.99
Only four casks remain of this range called the "Museo Solera", or "Museum Solera", that has aged for over forty years. Only half a cask is selected for bottling to preserve the tradition.
This looks and tastes more like an Amontillado, and it even has an edge of Olorosso to it. Yet structurally, the resolute elegance is all Fino. Smooth, even caressing, on the palate, this wine has a sturdy palate feel with a lifted, lightly warming finish. The salty, tangy core with fresh Mission fig, walnuts and maple syrup notes remains crisply dry from start to finish. Even just a drop on the palate has a minute-long finish. This is an absolutely beguiling, harmonious wine that tastes of history in a glass.
Drink: 2021-26