Château Surain: Focused on Humor and Affordability in Bordeaux

Adrien Surain - with his two uncles - is making wines in the spirit of what I dubbed "Today's Bordeaux" in a report on affordable Bordeaux wines that I began a few years back. Eye-catching labels are paired with fruit-driven wines priced at very accessible prices. (Those listed below are approximate were the wines to be found in the US market.) I love the packaging, the fresh perspective and the humor, and I wish Château Surain much success in this new era. 

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Château Surain 2020 Merlot News Drinker Sans Sulfites Bordeaux 14.5% $16
Concentrated, fruit-driven and a bit prune-y on the nose, this wine is voluptuous and hedonsitically ripe with sleek tannins. Still, there is a vibrant, fresh bell pepper note that is classically Bordelais. Showing good acidity, this is the best-balanced wine of the trio.
Drink: 2021-22 

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Château Surain 2019 Merlot Bordeaux 14.5% $18
Packed with forward fruit flavors of plum and black cherry, this wine is a powerhouse in body and alcohol. Its girth is striking. The pungent acidity is initially refreshing then turns a touch acrid, and the tannins are stringy and drying. The flavors are lusciously jammy - and the freshest of the group, but they finish abruptly short. 
Drink: 2021-22 

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Château Surain 2018 Merlot Popcorn 15% $16
Aromas of sloe, cassis and tar rush out of the glass. Taste-wise, the wine's fruits turn to prunes and dried figs. The wine is fiercely ripe. The tannins and acidity are balanced but the aggressive, ultra-concentrated nature of the wine would make it hard to finish a single glass. Here, too, the finish is quick.
Drink: 2021-22