The Chemisty and Individuality of Chehalem and Stoller

In early 2018, Chehalem and Stoller became fully interconnected through a single owner, though the two properties retained their distinct personalities. The Chemistry label soon brought them together to make a third, easily accessible wine label - both in style and in price. Here's the latest...do NOT miss the "*" wines! 

Whites
92
Chehalem 2018 Chardonnay Reserve Dundee Hills Estate Grown 13.9% $40
This fruit comes from the Stoller Vineyard, and the wine is fermented entirely in French oak (20% new) then aged 11 months in barrel and five months in stainless steel on lees. Bright and crystal clear, this youthful, oaked Chardonnay is the color of lemon pulp. The nose is reserved, even as it warms up for an hour in the glass. There is a light flinty tone that is immediately atractive on the palate, and it is accompanied by guava, papaya and toast. The elegant palate gives richness and creaminess with an easy-going mid-weight. Nicely sappy, this is a bit young now, even if it is enjoyable. If possibly, give it at least a year. The lingering finish with minerally touches and layered finish suggests this has a strong future ahead. If you can resist when opening it now, keeping this into Day 2 is a treat. The wine really blossoms! 250 cases produced.
Drink: 2021-24 

91
Stoller 2018 Chardonnay Reserve Dundee Hills Estate Grown 13.2% $40
Aged 20% in new and 80% in neutral oak, this is a blend of some of the oldest Dijon Chardonnay vines on the property, planted between 1995 and 2000. The aromas take some time to unfold but eventually offer Comice pear, green apple, gingersnap and toast. The medium-bodied palate is framed by perky acidity (50% malolactic conversion completed) that sticks out a bit and emphasizes the light phenolic edge (despite 100% whole cluster pressed). The oatmeal and apple finish is moderate.
Drink: 2021-23 

90*
Chehalem 2020 Chardonnay Unoaked INOX 12.5% $20
Tasting more like a moderately aromatic white than anything associated with Chardonnay, this caressing, layered, harmonious and charasmatic white tastes of pears and white pepper with subtle notes of fern leaf. Medium-bodied with a light, palate-coating viscosity, this is supple and moreish thanks especially to the fine keel of mouthwatering acidity.
Drink: 2021-22 

89*
Chemistry 2019 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 12.5% $14
Tantalizing on the nose, this wine has oodles of spicy overtones accompanying peach and Meyer lemon. Smooth on the entry with a broad, palate-covering vinosity, this is juicy and vinous while having a very reasonable, even rather low alcohol level for the verbose style. (Generally, lower alcohol Pinot Gris tend to have less flavor and less body.) Showing a minerally and lingering finish, this is tasty and delightfully complex. It has the substance to hold nicely for a few years. This is one to stock up on!
Drink: 2021-23  

88
Chehalem 2019 Pinot Gris Chehalem Mountains 12.5% $20
Spicy and fruity with a pleasant glycerol, mid-palate nudge, this is an unusally - even incredibly weighty - wine for just 12.5%. Moreish and fun, this stainless steel-crafted white is a touch less contemplative than the Chemistry. Smashed yellow apples, fennel and a hint of cinnamon dominate. 
Drink: 2021-22 

86
Chemistry 2019 Chardonnay Willamette Valley 13% $14
Profusely aromatic and strikingly young, this is a slightly awkward Chardonnay. The vanilla and toasty oak notes stick out from the nectarine and papaya fruit notes. This is most marked when the wine is first served, but even as the wine comes to room temperature, the two elements haven't yet found a seamless bond. Medium in body with refreshing acidity, the palate is lively and pleasant. It's worth giving this another six months to see if the elements come together more seamlessly.
Drink: 2021-23 

Rosés
89
Chehalem 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé Chehalem Mountains 12% $25
Smart, crisp and packed with vivid nectarine and wild raspberry aromas, this is a rosé that is raring to go. It's intensely enjoyable with generous fruit character, yet also well-structured with the barest tannic effect. Juicy to the core and dynamically youthful and layered in fruit with an easy-going 12% abv, this is highly irresistible. It should hold well in bottle, but there's no reason not to drink it in its über youth. This was fermented in stainless steel tanks and neutral barrels then aged three months in tank, barrel and concrete.
Drink: 2021-23 

88
Stoller 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley 12.5% $28
Woo wee! This is a rosé that needs decanting, unless strong reduction is your thing. In the 20 minutes I spent with the wine on Day 1, the reduction tied up the fruit and the wine tasted bitter. However, on Day 2 - with about 75% of the original volume remaining in the bottle, the wine blossomed. Showing wholesome fruit flavors with nectarine, peach pit and strawberry, there is also a bare earthiness that is very Pinot Noir. The pithiness of Day 1 remains on Day 2, but with the tsunami of fruit flavors, they turn into a positive. In fact, this medium-bodied rosé has the structural bones, moderately complex flavor and solid finish to hold well and possibly develop to benefit in bottle. Also worth mentioning is that the wine has a moderately pronounced pink color with vivid rose color and light orange undertones. 
Drink: 2021-23 

Reds
93
Chehalem 2018 Pinot Noir Reserve Chehalem Mountains 13.8% $70
Hailing from 64% estate-grown fruit, this was fermented in stainless steel then aged in French oak, of which 32% was new, for 18 months. 600 cases were made. Lurid mulberry in color, this wine smells of blueberry, Christmas potpourri and tea leaves. The voluminous mid-palate with slightly tart but pleasantly refreshing acidity and broad but smooth tannins leading to a fervently-flavored finish is fully delightful and will improve with time.
Drink 2021-25 

92
Chehalem 2019 Pinot Noir Corral Creek Vineyard Estate Grown Chehalem Mountains 13.6% $50
Hailing from a vineyard whose first vines were planted in 1983 - the same year the Willamette Valley AVA is approved, this site provides a classic example of Laurelwood soil, which is windblown glacial silt. The cup runneth over here with a vibrancy that ricochets off the sides of the glass as well as across the palate. Zingy red currants and dried cranberries marry with hints of allspice and tea leaves. The rounded tannins and punchy acidity show impressive integration for such a young wine. This medium-bodied Pinot Noir is hard not to enjoy now but will shine brightly for a good while. 
Drink: 2021-26 

92
Stoller Family Estate 2018 Pinot Noir Reserve Dundee Hills 14.1% $50
Richly fruited and lightly smoky, this boasts a whirlwind of flavors. Mighily youthful, it takes well to a vigorous decanting. The plethora of aromas really takes off with two-plus hours of aeration. Blackberries, boysenberries and underbrush combine with ganache and toast on an ample palate with smooth-as-silk tannins, lifting acidity and a wee touch of noticeable alcohol on the impressively long finish. This is a gorgeous mouthful of Pinot Noir from a warmer vintage, perfect for those who love bolder Pinot styles. This will have staying power in the cellar.
Drink: 2021-26 

92
Stoller Family Estate 2019 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 13.5% $35
High-toned with pretty red cherry pit notes and oodles of black plums, this wine's palate is layered with licorice, mocha, damp earth and fireplace embers. Smooth and plump with good acidic verve and lightly grainy tannins, this is a charasmatic Pinot that will find many friends!
Drink: 2021-25 

86
Chemistry 2019 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 13.5% $19
A surprising hint of Brettanomyces was the first thing I picked up in this wine. It wasn't overly  pungent, but it was distracting in a wine meant to be a juicy, easy-drinking Pinot Noir. The red fruit character was dried out and tired, though it did improve modestly with time in the glass. The tannins are tough and dry the modest finish. However, the refreshing acidity is pleasant. 
Drink: 2021-23 

86
Stoller Family Estate 2019 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 13.5% $25
Showing ample bramble fruit on the nose as well as a pleasant woodsiness (as in a walk in the woods), this smells like quintessential Pinot Noir. Light chocolatey notes from the 15% new French oak (85% neutral) join the cherry and strawberry fruit on the palate. While mouthfilling and medium in body, the flavors are straightforward and the finish is swift. The dry and drying tannins lack charm. This should work well with a chill and pair nicely with casual fare.
Drink: 2021-23