A Lively Spanish Red from the Revitalized Tintilla Grape

Few people would think to plant a vineyard for red wine in the middle of the Palomino vineyards of Jerez, which is Sherry country, on Spain's southwestern coast. Unlike the 80% of Spain's vineyards that sit at high altitudes, these vineyards near the sea sit in a sunny, intensely hot area. That didn't deter Luis Pérez from planting there in 2002. Then in 2011, he followed with another vineyard - this one planted the closest to the Mediterranean - dedicated to one of the region's old black grapes, Tintilla de Rota.  

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Bodegas Luis Pérez 2017 Balbaína El Triángulo Tintilla Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz 13.5% $19
Starting off with a pungent, virile nose, this wine's aromas are vividly open from the pull of the cork. Its dark-fruited palate is more brooding, however; a quick 20-30 minute sit in the glass or in a decanter does it wonders. Black currants, açai and lavender come to the fore while a hint of black peppercorn and damp forest floor surface on the moderate finish. It's a dynamic wine, but it is rather straightforward and quick on the finish. It's a great, summer-y red for early consumption thanks to its mouthwatering acidity, lightly chewy tannins and absolutely zero oak influence.
Drink: 2021-23