Core FEL 2018 Releases & the Story of the Savory Vineyard

FEL is named for Florence Elsie Lede, founder Cliff Lede’s grandmother who made wine in her basement in Alberta, Canada, with anything she could get her hands on. She even worked with cherries and raspberries!

FEL focuses on Anderson Valley, which is packed with contrast - like Florence's wines apparently, despite its small size. The Anderson Valley is just slightly longer than the island of Manhattan! For every mile that one moves toward the Pacific coast from Boonville at the valley's eastern edge, there is the loss of one degree Fahrenheit from the average daytime temperature. There is a five week spread between picking in Boonville and Navarro, at the valley's western point! As winemaker Ryan Hodgins - who grew up outside the Willamette Valley but transplanted to California in 2002 - said, the Anderson Valley is nature's tipping point between "the feel" of the rest of California to the south and Oregon to the north.

The Savoy Vineyard is FEL's estate vineyard, situated at the mid-point of the valley, which is also the narrowest sector of the valley. Fog gets trapped here, plus north of Savoy - whose slope faces south - there is basically nothing but forest. As this is a kind of a dividing point in the valley, the Savoy Vineyard turns out to be the warmest site on the cold, western side of Anderson Valley. Ridges here rise to 2,000 feet, so the southern side of the valley receives little afternoon sunshine. This 43-acre planting was named for its original farmer, Richard Savoy, who planted the vineyard in 1991. This was the second vineyard he planted in the Anderson Valley, and it was purchased by Cliff Lede in 2011.

Today, Savoy's 200-plus blocks are farmed row-by-row, and no single block is more than three acres. Planted primarily to Heritage (including Swan, Martini and Calera) and Dijon Clone Pinot Noir, there are also blocks of Prosser and Wente Clone Chardonnay. Richard Savoy was devoted personally to Pinot Noir but planted the Chardonnay for Roederer Estate, the largest producer in the Anderson Valley.

Savoy Vineyard soils are sandy loams that have excellent water holding capacity, which is needed. West of the town of Philo - which is just east of Savoy Vineyard - there is no ground water. This explains the lack of development in Anderson Valley; no one could build a hotel or a golf course among other possibilities. All Savoy water is rainwater and winter capture water. Winter storms usually start in November and last into late March. With captured water, the vines can usually make it into July before they receive irrigation.

Whites
92
Chardonnay 2018 Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley 13.9% $48
Elegant and lifted, this concentrated Chardonnay's whisper of viscosity gives it a velvety feeling. Aromas and flavors abound here, including kumquat, start fruit, tree blossoms and gingerbread. This is slightly more focused and complex than the Anderson Valley Chardonnay, thanks especially to its croissant and marzipan nuances attributable to oak aging.
Drink: 2021-25

90
Chardonnay 2018 Anderson Valley 13.6% $32
Suave and succulent, this is cool climate Chardonnay has an impressively luscious palate feel. The aromatic fruit profile is pristine clean, and it beams with citrus fruit character: pomelo and yuzu mesh with sweet-tart lemon curd. Pleasant and easy-going, this bottling - as ever - is supremely drinkable thanks to the suavely-integrated, deft oak treatment. Crackling acidity nicely contains the full-ish body and extends the finish.
Drink: 2021-23 

Reds
93
FEL 2018 Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley 13.8% $70
Mouth-filing, juicy and moreish, mulberry, black cherry and savory spice layer onto the zealously pure palate. The fairly weighty but polished mouthfeel is nicely streamlined thanks to racy acidity and gently sculpting tannins. The finish isn't particularly long, but it does filter in additional flavor nuances of cinnamon stick and crumble topping. Drinkable from the first drop, this really starts to strut its stuff after an hour in the decanter. 
Drink: 2021-25 

90
FEL 2018 Pinot Noir FEL Anderson Valley 14.2% $40
Youthful and red-fruited, this star-bright, ruby-colored wine is a feast for the senses. Its aromas benefit from several hours of decanting. With time, lilac, anise, red cherry and lingonberry unfurl on the palate. It is an incredibly fruit-driven Pinot Noir with few of the underbrush or earthy tones often associated with the grape. Vinous and mouth-filling yet still nimble on the palate thanks to good acidic verve, the layered length suggest this will benefit from time in the bottle. This offers very good value.
Drink: 2021-23