Posts in Wine Reviews
Upshot Wines - Appealing Eccentric

Winemaker Justin Seidenfeld clearly has a knack for blending based on these two wines in Rodney Strong Vineyard's relatively new Upshot line. The combination of varieties is delightfully unorthodox.

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A Glorious Abundance of Abruzzo Wines

There’s nothing better than the glimpse of sunshine through a nice glass of wine, especially when it comes from the beautiful landscape of Abruzzo. An area replete with historical vineyards yet thriving with new ideas, these wines offer a window into the region’s diversity, despite the predominance of just a few varieties.

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Austrian Wines by Soil Type

Austria makes some of the most precise wines in the world, and there is nothing like tasting single vineyard wines to understand the soil's impact on the grape variety. That's true even when the wines are field blends, like the Gemischter Satz.

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Spanish Holiday Array

Spanish wines offer such excellent value and style diversity. They’re great to hit up for the holidays, even if your celebration may need fewer bottles than usual in this crazy year. As I always do, I marvel at the complexity of Sherry, one of the most under-appreciated wines around these days. Both this Sherry and this Chardonnay merit a “*” as personal faves!

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Troon Vineyard 2019 Vermentino Amphora Amber

Troon Vineyard 2019 Vermentino Amphora Amber: First opened, the wine smells of tangerine peel or orange zest and Marcona almonds. As it opens up, it expands into aromas of passion fruit green tea and star anise. The complexity is very compelling. However, don't open it with expectations of immediate pleasure.

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Innovating in Bordeaux

Change is afoot in Bordeaux as one steps away from the classified growths and luxury cuvées for which the region is well-known, but which in reality only reflect a small portion of wine production. Higher proportions of "spice rack" varieties and less new oak - not to mention a much more experimental approach to fermenting and aging vessels - shape the resulting wines. Here are three innovative reds - all made by women - that I recently tasted. The Hors-Série is a new fave!

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Domaine Bousquet Gaia Range

Gaia is the Greek goddess of earth, who gives life to all things. While Domaine Bousquet has farmed organically from its first days in the early 1990s and proudly displays its many certifications, this range honors this practice - and visually cues today's earth-concerned but busy shoppers - with the image of Gaia on the front label.

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Domaine Bousquet NV Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Sparkling Brut Tupungato, Uco Valle

Domaine Bousquet NV Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Sparkling Brut: Perched in the Andes Mountains at 1,200 meters / 3,937 feet, the vineyards for these grapes are certified organic and harvested by hand. Produced using the Charmat method, where the second alcoholic fermentation occurs in tank rather than in bottle, this is a value-driven over-performer ready for everyday enjoyment or special occasions. Bonus: the wine is vegan friendly.

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A Welcoming or Perplexing Forecast: Sunny with a Chance of Flowers 

US consumers have arrived later than many others to the threshold of lower alcohol wines - not surprising for a country whose wine industry largely is known for cranking out high-alcohol, blockbuster bottlings. It's no surprise that US wine production has been slow to pursue the idea. That stands in grand contrast to the Moscato craze seven to eight years ago. (Ironically, many of those Moscatos were lower in alcohol.) The Moscato craze was easier to develop as sweet, low alcohol Moscato has been made - and made well - for a very long time. However, developing a dry, flavorful, low-alcohol wine is much trickier. I admit that I wondered if these wines would be more like "sunny with a chance of flavor".

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German "Burgunder" Wines

Wines from the Pinot umbrella family sometimes are called "Burgunder" wines in German, with Burgunder referencing Burgundy, the widely-accepted birthplace of Pinot. The three grapes grouped together are Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, called Spätburgunder, Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder in German.

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Jordan 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley

Jordan 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley: This Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon leans toward the youthful side of the fence more than the aged one...just. It is drinking nicely now with pretty red-toned fruits, especially plums, as well as blackcurrants. Licorice, eucalyptus and tobacco tinges give the wine a good array of flavors. Overall, it's a savory style of wine…, even if its cuddly structure suggests it may not be the longest-lived red from Jordan.

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Pasqua's "Hey French" Label Falls Flat

Sorry, Pasqua. I don’t get the name or the concept of this wine. The French can’t make it (they aren’t in Italy, much less the Veneto) and the French don’t grow Garganega. Additionally, except in Champagne, the French - like almost all other still wine producers - don't regularly make multi-vintage cuvées that are labeled as such.

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Torres: Value, History and Integrity in Every Bottle

The Torres name is one of the most powerful in Spanish wine, not to mention quality Spanish wine. Given the enormous range of wines in numbers of labels and in price points made by the Torres family, this is all the more remarkable. With the Torres name, you buy consistently good quality, whichever the wine.

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B Vintners from Walker Bay

B Vintners 2015 Chardonnay Fire Heath Walker Bay: Unusually aromatic with an almost a Muscat-like nose, I almost wish it hadn't known its grape variety when I first tasted it. This is a somewhat perplexing, but not at all displeasing, Chardonnay. Rather, it’s incredibly compelling.

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Tenuta di Arceno 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Strada al Sasso

Tenuta di Arceno 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Strada al Sasso: This wine's nose immediately absorbs my attention. It is hedonistic but not over the top. It is beautifully balanced, but it commands enough weight and girth to be head-turning for a Chianti Classico. Clearly, that is why it is a Gran Selezione, the highest of the Chianti Classico DOCG levels. (Previously, this single vineyard micro cru was labeled as their Riserva wine before the Gran Selezione designation came into play with the 2010 vintage.)

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Rafael Tirado Wines 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Laberinto

I was excited to buy and taste this wine as I have read some compelling things about Rafael Tirado's own wines. Moreover, Rafael's pedigree is impressive. For decades Rafael has made very good wines in many countries using a wide array of grape varieties. Additionally, I love complex Sauvignon Blancs, and I think the variety’s potential is too often overlooked.

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Domaine Alice Hartmann - Sitting on the Steep Slopes of the Moselle River

Hailing from eastern Luxembourg's limestone soils, this blended sparkler made of Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir was fermented in an equal split of 228-L oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. The still wine underwent malolactic fermentation before its second primary fermentation in bottle. Interestingly, it was dosed with the house's ice wine. The residual sugar sits at 11.5 g/L.

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