A Glorious Abundance of Abruzzo Wines

There’s nothing better than the glimpse of sunshine through a nice glass of wine, especially when it comes from the beautiful landscape of Abruzzo. An area replete with historical vineyards yet thriving with new ideas, these wines offer a window into the region’s diversity, despite the predominance of just a few varieties.

Whites
93
Tenuta Terraviva 2017 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Mario's 12.5%
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo varies so widely in style that it's hard to know what any bottle might deliver. However, I was intrigued by this bottle's modern packaging and certified organic status. And, wow, did this wine fully deliver! This is a savory and lively Trebbiano. Its nose starts off with a Saltine Cracker note, bursting with brininess, and there's even a bit of Picholine olive and celery. The complexity is compelling. The palate is bracingly fresh with a light hook of tugging tannins and exuberant acidity. The medium finish and good structure suggest this should hold well for several years, but it's pretty irresistible now.
Drink: 2020-23 

89
Codice Vino 2018 Pecorino Abruzzo Superiore Tegèo 13% 
A deep, yellow-colored wine with savory aromatics, this begins with undercurrents of guava, dried lemon rind and Valencia orange. There's copious viscosity and a beguiling, mouthcoating texture on the attack, but plentiful acidic lift brings everything into line. The finish is a bit clipped due to some tannin, but this is a great food wine with a bold - but not weighty - palate feel.
Drink: 2020-23 

89
Tenuta Secolo IX 2019 Pecorino Colline Pescaresi 13.5% 
This is a silky, slightly lush wine that glides right onto the palate with zippy back-palate verve. Smelling of pomelo, star fruit and guava, the aromas are enticing. The palate follows with the same flavors, adding a creamy texture to this slightly cuddly and mildly exotic wine. There is a lovely vinosity and resolute drinkability in this wine. The appealing tinge of bitterness on the finish suggests this will shine the brightest with food.
Drink: 2020-23 

88
Talamonti 2018 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Aternum 13% 
This is a bold and rather unusual Trebbiano, one that should be served at cellar rather than refrigerator temperature. It could use some aeration, too. It has seen significant new barrel contact as well as generous lees stirring. This makes it a bit of an exaggerated wine, seemingly more reflective of winemaking than of its grape variety and Abruzzese terroir. But, pleasure doesn't have to epitomize terroir or grape genetics, and this wine will certainly find fans. The coconut, honey and butterscotch notes vie for attention over the pronounced tropical aromas of pineapple and mango nestled in with caramelized tarte tatin. Medium-plus in body with a thick and creamy mid-palate, the medium acidity seems to struggle to deliver refreshment.
Drink: 2020-22 

87
Tenuta i Fauri di Luigi di Camillo 2019 Pecorino Abruzzo 13.5% $13
An engaging, compelling wine, with Sherry-esque and salty Spanish almond top-notes. Its lightly drying texture suggests it had some skin contact, which nicely buffers the mid-palate baby fat. Savory and lightly earthy with delicate fruit undertones, this can be drunk on its own or with a wide array of foods - even with heavier dishes thanks to its foursquare tannins. A straightforward wine, this nonetheless finishes with satisfying balance and pleasure.
Drink: 2020-22 

Reds
93
Torre Zambra 2017 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Villamagna 15%
This darkly-colored and concentrated, yet elegant, wine that saw 40+ days of skin contact defied my expectations. It is incredibly dark - near black, at the core, and its nose is initially rather mute. Happily, the wine evolves dramatically with oxygenation. It quickly pops out of its shell and adds rose petals and peaty earthiness to its summer berry fruit profile. Its grippy tannins are unique for a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, and they do a fine job of managing the full body and elevated alcohol. Dramatic and nuanced with a solid finish, this is showing very well today and has a ways to go.
Drink: 2020-25 

92
Codice Citra 2015 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Caroso 14%
Dark at the core with a black cherry-colored meniscus, this fragrant wine bursts with a bold array of smells. Uber-pure, the aromas hone in on Marasca cherries and sweet balsamic, but the palate goes further. Lilac, anise and cassis add to the attractive mélange. The attack is lush, dense and full-bodied. The tannins feel like velvet as they glide across the palate. The acidity is reserved but strives to pull the wine into balance and does manage to give a refreshing finish.
Drink: 2020-27 

89
Fontefico 2019 Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore Fossimato 13.5%
Slightly muted for a Cerasuolo nose, this is still a juicy wine packed with red cherries and the tweaky tinge of pomegranate arils. Considerable in mouthfilling capacity though not in weight, this acts like a light red, and it works well with a chill. The palate flavors expand into anise and twiggy underbrush while retaining a resolutely mineral-laden fervor. The finish is brief but brisk with lively acidity and a tannic verve. There's everything to like here, including the organic farming.
Drink: 2020-22 

88
Feudo Antico 2018 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 13% 
Practically throbbing with aromas of freshly-turned earth and mulberries, this is a pensive Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Time and air coax much more out of this intriguing, brooding glass through layers of black tea, black currant and spice drawer. The firm though smooth tannins initially suggest good drinkability. Alas, its modest acidity - despite its very reasonable alcohol level - leaves it feeling somewhat thick on the palate. Similarly, the full-throttle, medium finish is impressive if a bit heavy. A bit of a chill (50° F) might give this more peps!
Drink: 2020-24 

85
Velenosi 2017 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Prope 14% $19
A chalky and dry Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, this wine has just enough mid-palate juiciness to carry it to the finish line. It's not a wine with lots of layers, but its full-throttle, ripe mulberry flavors offer immediate satisfaction. The acidity is mild and allows the elevated alcohol to come to the forefront. The high alcohol also emphasizes the tannic bitterness, which in turn minimizes the finish. There is plenty of structure and generous ripeness, but it's rather disjointed. In a pinch it's fine, but the denominazione offers more pleasure via other bottlings. 
Drink: 2020-21