DuMOL: A Treat of a Tasting

It’s always a treat to taste small production wines, and Andy Smith’s coveted DuMOL wines certainly fit that bill.

95
DuMOL 2016 Syrah Eddie's Patch Greywacke Vineyard Russian River Valley 14.5%
Tight and reserved on the nose, the reduction is powerful. This needs a two-plus hour decanting or the help of the WinePrO2 oxygenator. The lush palate is more forthcoming with classic blackberry and ground black pepper notes. Dense with layer upon layer of flavor concentration, the structural integration is remarkable, particularly given the high alcohol. The tannins are closely-knit and highly refined. The silky, lengthy finish and overall poise promise a long life ahead. Once opened up it drinks nicely now, but I would wait three to four more years.
Drink: 2023-31 

93
DuMOL 2016 Pinot Noir Finn Russian River Valley 14.3%
Deep maroon at the core, this is a bold and chunky style of Pinot Noir, highly typical of the Russian River Valley. Black cherry, mulberry and cola pounce on the nose then glide onto the full-bodied and unctuously supple palate. The warmth on the lingering, glycerol coating finish is rather distracting. It's also on the finish that the tight and lightly drying tannins surface. Interestingly, they are almost imperceptible mid-sip. In the end, while the acidity is discreetly woven into the wine, the final impression is fresh and moreish. This boisterous bottling is showing well now, but it has a long way to go thanks to its impressive concentration. The question is whether it will become more finessed or if it will remain a powerhouse.
Drink: 2020-26 

93
DuMOL 2018 Syrah Wild Mountainside Russian River Valley 14.3%
Dark in color but youthful and supple on the nose, there truly is a wild fruit side to this spirited Syrah. Black currants, sloe and black plum skin dominant the juicy, approachable palate. Vinous with lively acidic lift, this wine has fine, structuring tannins. The vaguely meaty finish adds intriguing nuance that helps distract the taster from the noticeable alcoholic strength. Highly drinkable though not showing much nuance now, this wine should evolve nicely in the next few years and grow into a more nuanced bottling.
Drink: 2022-24 

93
DuMOL 2018 Chardonnay Isobel Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast 14.1%
There is a lot of Chardonnay in this Chardonnay! Showing a pronounced yellow color, the nose jumps out of the glass with a flamboyant effusion of sweet spice, toasted brioche and pineapple brulée. Creamy and ample mid-palate yet bustling with crisp freshness, this feels medium-bodied despite its 14%+ alcohol. This incredibly classy and well-built, single vineyard Chardonnay has the band-width to improve over the next several years and hold even longer.
Drink: 2020-28