Unfolding the Layers of a Few Georgian Wines

I especially enjoy tasting Georgian qvevri wines as they have so many layers to unfold. They always deserve a few hours of observation, unlike - as they would say in Georgia - European-style wines.

Whites

93
Gotsa 2016 Chinuri Dry Unfiltered Wine Asureti Valley Kartli 11.8%
What is most impressive with this wine is its incredible drive of lush fruit flavors despite its robust tannic frame. The integration of the whole body, which feels rather lush despite the reserved 11.8% alcohol, works with elegance. Savory, harmonious and confident, this wine's seamless, well-proportioned structure can hold its own again a broad span of dishes that can accompany either red or white wines. The symphony of flavors include tangerine peel, cantaloupe core, fresh ginger and freshly-ground anise, the last of which reels long into the finish!
Drink: 2020-22

89
Do-Re-Mi 2018 Kisi Unfiltered Amber Dry Kvevri Wine Kartli 14%
Looking like a Palo Cortado or Olorosso Sherry, this unusual orange wine made from the Kisi grape definitely grabs one's attention pre-sip. Its subdued nose has noticeable volatility and focuses on non-fruit flavors. What there is in moderately fresh, citrus fruit character fades incredibly quickly. Kisi is a fairly subtle grape, and the winemaking seems to have overtaken the variety here. The wine's intense grip grinds onto the lightly funky palate, even at cellar temperature. And, do drink this at cellar temperature - more like a red rather than a white wine, otherwise its tannins are thorougly unpleasant. The finish is short despite the moderately intense flavor layers. Over the three hours that I observed the wine, its freshness continued to dwindle while its tannic structure remained impressively robust. It's an intellectual wine, but I find it more interesting to taste than to drink.
Drink: 2020-22

Red

93
Sakpiano 2017 Khvanchkara Kakheti 12.1%
Made with 60% Aleksandrouli and 40% Mudjuretuli seeing 8 months of skin contact, this dark, black cherry colored wine smells supremely elegant with its effusive, floral, come-hither bouquet and notes of licorice, ripe blackberry, black cherry, black tea and a whiff of balsamic vinegar. It's truly beguiling aromatically. The palate has an interestingly soft, almost spongy, attack of noticeable sweetness that quickly receives reinforcement from a bracing wave of spiky acidity. It's beautiful to sniff, but I doubt I could drink it unless seated at a table. This is a demanding wine. After the saliva-building wave of acidity, the palate rapidly - surprisingly - recedes to that cuddly, spongy start with the barest veneer of vaguely gripping tannins presiding from start to lingering, minerally finish. There is a delightfully haunting mulberry sensation that hovers.
Drink: 2020-22