Pellegrini: Winegrower License No. 4
The Pellegrini family story began in 1915 when Nello Pellegrini immigrated from Tuscany to the US, eventually ending up in Santa Rosa, California. Nello made his first wine during Prohibition, in 1925! After the 21st Amendment's ratification (the repeal of the 18th), the Pellegrini family applied for and received Winegrower License No. 4.
Moving forward many decades, Vincent and Aida Pellegrini bought a substantial orchard on West Olivet Road in Santa Rosa and planted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in 1975. All of the plantings were "heirloom clones", Martini Pinot Noir and Wente Chardonnay. These are coveted clones today, even though many winemakers talk up their more modern Dijon clones.
History remains in the making at Pellegrini-Olivet Lane, as Alexia Pellegrini now commands the helm for the fourth generation. There is a steady, consistent winemaking hand here, and the wines are solidly good, even though only the rosé is a "wow".
Rosé
89*
Pellegrini Wine 2019 Rosé Russian River Valley 13.8% $30
How cool! I have never seen a Pinot Noir and Carignane blend - ever. But, here it is in a seriously delicious rosé! Only 200 cases were made, so get some stat!
Mid-depth, salmon pink in color, this is radiant right out of the bottle. The first splash on the palate shows a drying cherry tomato and rhubarb note accented by bay leaf. The fresh flavors contrasted by savory nuances are vibrant and engaging. On the palate, a sneaky but most delightful sensation of low-lying tannins creeps into every crevice. Dry, this is! And, while close to full-bodied, this is not a wine with a cloying, goopy mouthfeel driven by a thick layer of glycerol. The finish is clipped but brings on a new taste dimension of drying herbs. Fun and vivacous, this is perfectly pleasant on its own. Plus, its solid structure makes it better equipped to deal with a wider range of foods than the many lighter versions of rosé that are so popular now.
Drink: 2020-22
Whites
88
Pellegrini Wine 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 13.8% $30
This small production wine - only 240 cases produced - is super pale yellow in color. That is surprising for a Russian River Sauvignon Blanc - or any Russian River white for that matter. This wine has just enough of everything to create interest thanks to good ripeness and the diversification between 90% tank fermentation and 10% French oak fermentation. Fresh and juicy, this wine's uber-clean fruit tastes of exotic fruits: papaya, lychee and dragon fruit. Its short finish with vague, crisp tannins suggests that it is best to enjoy it early on. Its exuberance will be hard to resist anyway.
Drink: 2020-22
88
Pellegrini Wine 2018 Chardonnay Russian River Valley Unoaked 14.1% $30
More aromatically giving than the Sauvignon Blanc (usually I would expect the inverse), this smart Chardonnay is easy on the senses. Tasting of pear drop, lemon candy and pineapple, it is a highly ripe Chardonnay that retains good focus. This seems to nod to the fact that the wine was made without malolatic fermentation, meaning the tarter, malic acid remains to give it more edge. Most interestingly, it is a powerful Chardonnay, which is unusual for an unoaked Chardonnay. Also, though unoaked, the wine has a vividly toasty note, due clearly to its sur lie aging.
Drink: 2020-22
Reds
89
Pellegrini Wine 2018 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 14.2% $40
Smooth and elegant with a plethora of perky summer berry fruit, this is immediately enjoyable Pinot Noir. The flavors focus on fruit, but there's also a dusting of cocoa powder and a light earthiness to add some complexity. The sassy acidity pops the back palate to provide tantalizing refreshment while the wispy but lightly drying tannins hover at the edges to give the wine some bite on the moderate finish. This is a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir that won't clobber the food on the table.
Drink: 2020-23
88
Pellegrini Wine 2018 Zinfandel Alexander Valley 14.3% $35
Plush and round, this is nicely sippable thanks to the somewhat aggressive back palate acidity that dries the quick finish more than the mild tannins. It's a bit of a Catch 22. You get an approachable palate feel that ends with refreshment, but also with bitterness. If you don't mind a more Italian feel to your Zinfandel - appropriate given the winery's family name, this is a Zin for you! The flavors of blackberry and sweet plum whoosh across the palate, met by a touch of cinnamon on the finish. While the final impression feels a bit heady with alcohol, this shows an overall balanced palate.
Drink: 2020-23