Windracer & Exceptional Passion
Barbara Banke of Jackson Family Wines does nothing that isn't infused deeply with passion. So when I heard that she entered a partnership with a long-standing friend, Peggy Furth - formerly of Chalk Hill Estates - to develop a line of wines called Windracer, I was immediately curious.
These are two class-act, business-savvy women, who earned their stripes and their very considerable paychecks on their own, well before they became part of California's North Coast elite vintners. I knew that the wines and terroir they chose would be distinctive.
The Windracer wines are tagged as "Thoroughbred" wines. These two buzzwords combined clearly spoke to Barbara's love of racing horses, developed with her late husband Jess Jackson. In the very same vein, Peggy has also long focused on raising and riding horses. Peggy developed an equestrian center near her former home and vines at Chalk Hill Estate, founded with her late husband Fred. Barbara established racing stables in Kentucky. Whether dressage or racing, these women know and love horses...and wine.
Both women are exceptional torch carriers for ultra-premium California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The two bottles I had a chance to taste here embody the character of the wines - grown in far-west Sonoma and more-northerly Mendocino vineyards - and the strong women behind them.
The Windracer tag line? Fittingly, it is "Unbridled Passion for the Extraordinary".
93
Windracer 2018 Pinot Noir Sealift Vineyard Sonoma Coast 15.1% $75
This big and hefty Sonoma Coast (and yes, those two descriptors do defy the idea of chilly climate, extreme Sonoma Coast wines) is full-bodied and pungently flavorful in its youthful, brambly and exotic fruit mix. Nonetheless, the palate is elegant in fruit flavors with its beautifully pure black and red cherry flavors and an intense combination of dried spices. While the acidity is moderate but lifting, there is a tingly, tannic presence on the palate that provides light tension tension and good lift. The purity, concentration and vivacity of this wine are definitively notable. Only 237 cases were made.
Drink: 2021-25
92
Windracer 2018 Chardonnay Saralee Vineyard Russian River Valley 13.5% $65
While initially smelling of not much more than buttered brioche and lees (mind you, that's pretty attractive on its own), this youthful, densely flavorful wine opens up dramatically on the palate. It shows a salty, Spanish almond note along with a more dense, almond butter character. Alas, while incredibly elegant in palate feel, this wine is not very refreshing (it has very moderate acidity) though only 13.5% abv. Still, in it is youth, there is good vigor. Stay tuned on age-worthiness, but don't deprive yourself of current enjoyment!
Drink: 2021-25