The Oldest Vines in the Russian River Valley: Olivet Lane Vineyard

Operating under Winery License No. 4 since the repeal of Prohibition, the Pellegrini family of Sonoma has Pinot Noir vines that are about to mark their 50th birthday. The oldest in the Russian River Valley, the Olivet Lane Vineyard's vines show up as single vineyard designates on many prestigious producers' labels: Williams Selyem, Merry Edwards, MacRostie and Gary Farrell among them.

In contrast to the star-struck prices of some of those cuvées, the Pellegrini family's wines offer better value at the high-end. Alas, I was disappointed to see the incredibly tasty Rosé of Pinot Noir and Unoaked Chardonnay jump 33% in price since the last vintage. Still, there is good diversity in the overall range, as can be seen in the second vintage of the playful Nouveau of Pinot Noir and the first estate dessert wine made in a white Port style.

Whites
92
Pellegrini 2017 Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley 14.3% $50
This is an exotically ripe Chardonnay that smells and tastes of pineapples, coconuts and toasted macadamia nuts. (The wine sees fermentation and aging in barrels, 29% new, for 18 months with only one racking prior to fermentation.) While this may sound a bit piña colada at first read, this is a seriously enticing bottle, even if oaked Chardonnay typically isn't your thing. That is because the palate finishes thoroughly dry and the finish keeps going and going. There is a reverberation of flavors that is very enticing. The wine might age well due to its concentration and verve, but it's so delightful now that it merits being enjoyed in its youth. 
Drink: 2021-25 

89*
Pellegrini 2019 Chardonnay Unoaked Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley 13.6% $40
A bright, clean and lively Chardonnay, this smells of honeydew melon, celery and fennel. The nose is super refreshing. The palate is balanced and layers on yellow plums and zesty notes like lime peel. Medium in body with perky verve and a slightly drying finish, this unoaked Chardonnay's good finish shows it is rather serious. While I wish it were still $30, it is still a good value vis-a-vis other stainless steel-fermented wines from the area that have no guts and no gusto.
Drink: 2021-23 

Rosé
90*
Pellegrini 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 12.8% $40 
This Rosé of Pinot Noir is sheer delight. Its balance is impeccable and its robust fruit delivers ample flavor. Presumably the "Old Vines" mentioned on the back label deserve a good bit of the credit. (A small bit comes from the first vintage of fourth leaf Pinot Noir vines.) However, the winemaker, Charlie Fauroat, clearly has a knack for rosé. I also loved the Pellegrini 2019 Rosé, which was a fascinating blend of Pinot Noir with Carignan. So, onto the wine - again a personal favorite in the line-up.

Scented with strawberries, peaches and cantaloupe, this rosé smells like a summer day at the green market. Medium in body with tantalizing acidity balanced by a touch of baby fat in the fruit, this wine glides gently across the palate with no evident tannins and a welcomed, dry finish. This could hold, but that will be a challenge for rosé lovers' discipline!
Drink: 2021-23 

Reds
92
Pellegrini 2017 Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley 13.9% $65
Rambunctious with wild red fruit flavors, this zippy Pinot Noir is still impressively youthful with pomegranate and blueberry swirling across the nose and palate. Robust in body, the wine shows a spirited, acidic tang and well-tamed tannins. There is a good, leathery length, too. This is 100% Martini clone fruit that sees 18 months of aging in French oak barrels, 30% new.
Drink: 2021-24 

89
Olivet Lane 2020 Nouveau of Pinot Noir 12.3% $40
A beautiful, maroon color, I tried this wine chilled - as a darker rose, and then again at 60 F° - as a red wine. Its carbonic style makes the chill pleasant, however, it emphasizes a slight funkiness. I preferred it at red wine temperature. Smelling of rose petals and red cherries, it tastes about the same. Über-juicy at the core with unusually broad tannins for Pinot Noir that nonetheless work very nicely in this more rustic style, this feels fuller-bodied than its 12.3% originally led me to expect. Mild on the blackberry finish with a pleasant minerally tinge, this is ready to drink now (and with its clear-colored bottle certainly, should be.)
Drink 2021-22 

Sweet
94
Olivet Lane Vineyard 2018 Chardonnay Late Harvest Russian River Valley 17.8% $40 (375 ml)
After blind tasting this golden-colored wine, I was surprised to read that it is fortified. The high total acidity (despite rather high pH) does a brilliant balancing act. This is an unusual and strikingly pure, focused wine with classic botrytis characteristics. Generous and juicy this waxy, glycerol-driven wine is succulent and honeyed with boisterous apricot layered with marzipan and croissant crust. Elegantly poised between its decadent aromas yet even keel structure on the palate, this will make many friends and should age nicely through the mid-term. 
Drink: 2021-25