Charles Heidsieck Re-Introduces Its Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage Champagne

94
Charles Heidsieck NV Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs $96
Charles Heidsieck made its first Blanc de Blancs in 1949. This non-vintaged cuvée, however, disappeared from the house's line-up until its reintroduction in 2018. This is composed of 2012 Côte des Blancs Chardonnay with 25% reserve wines averaging five years old. Disgorged in 2018, it received 10 g/L of dosage. 

Smelling of smashed apples, cinnamon and honeysuckle on the nose, the palate adds brioche and honey. The intense flavors work into every crevice of the palate. While supporting, the acidity is almost somber for such a concentrated Blanc de Blanc. Yet the wine feels well-balanced, thanks in good part to the plentiful bubbles lifting the medium, creamy body. The finish turns chalky and alluringly dry. This wine has captivating flair.
Drink: 2021-28

93
Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve 12% $69
This wine illustrates the magic of the greatest Champagne houses, between its complexity and its relatively affordable price for NV Brut Champagne. Interestingly, the house talks about proportions in style contributions rather than in percentages of grape varieties Here, Charles Heidsieck works on the principle of a 60-40-10 blend. The 60 comes from the number of crus used, about evenly divided between Meunier, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Every last grape is vinified by variety and cru. The 40 comes from a large portion of reserve wines, which is what makes Charles Heidsieck worthy of its higher price for NV Brut Champagne. The 10 signifies the average age of reserve wines, but it does not mark the oldest wine.  

This bottling is vivacious between its crackling acidity and chalky tug on the palate. Thanks to its moderate body and generous concentration, the Brut Réserve easily finds harmony. Flavors of field strawberry, succulent nectarine, toasted hazelnut and brioche wrap around the tongue. Fleshy and vinous, this wine easily overdelivers for its price point.
Drink: 2021-25 

90
Charles Heidsieck NV Champagne Brut Rosé Réserve $87
Despite the 20% reserve wines, this wine felt tight and stretched when I tasted it. This is definitely a sparkling wine that is best enjoyed from a wine glass rather than a flute. 

Like the Brut Réserve, the Rosé Réserve is evenly split between Champagne's three main grape varieties. Plus, it has a very generous 20% of reserve wines, 11 grams per liter of dosage and 5% of 3-year-aged red wine from Les Riceys in the Côte des Bars is blended in for color and body. Still, the wine was unrelenting in its crunchy palate feel. Nonetheless, there are vivid flavors of tart raspberry and wild strawberry laced with notes of pie crust and cream. Hopefully the knees and elbows will subside, and this will become better integrated. 
Drink: 2021-25