The Rise of Catena: Observation, Hard Work & Calculated Risk

Catena is an imposing family name in Argentinian wine. The first three generations built the initial and incredible, international reputation of the Catena wines. However, it is the fourth-generation vintner, Laura Catena, who is building an even bolder, bigger platform for the Catena reputation. How so? Laura is thinking about more than wine. Still, she works through the same lenses as those who carried the family name before her: observation, hard work and the willingness to take calculated risks.

Indeed, Laura is not just intent on making great wines, but also making great single vineyard wines, or Vinos de Parcela. Moreover, while we have come to expect greatness of the best Catena reds, Laura also has defied all preconceived notions about Argentinian white wines. The Catena White Bones and White Stones Chardonnays from the Adrianna Vineyard are full-on splendid.

Laura and her team also continue to surprise and scintillate us with their impressive research at the Catena Institute. One of their many quests is to prove that the French notion of terroir exists - not just in France, but everywhere! Laura and her team convey the findings of the Catena Institute via formal conferences, on social media...pretty much anywhere curious wine minds start a conversation.

With astonishing energy to spare, Laura has even written two books, Vino Argentino, and the beautifully illustrated Gold in the Vineyards. All this, plus Laura is a practicing emergency room doctor. No wonder her Italian grandmother called her La Lauchita, or the Little Mouse, because she never stops moving! Laura has done so much already, but I cannot wait to see what else she sets her mind to. 

This line-up of Catena wines tasted over the last few months was absolutely riveting.

Whites
96
Catena Zapata 2018 Chardonnay Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Vino de Parcela 12.6%
An expressive and even flamboyant bouquet springs from the glass: mint, tangerine and apricot create a wow-ing initial impact. Elegant and poised with a moderate body, the sappy, zippy palate gushes with a mouthwatering effect. Vinous yet lightly crisp and salty on the layered and lingering finish, the wine shimmies across the palate, delivering verve and excitement. This is a truly brilliant Chardonnay, and its showiness suggests it can start to be enjoyed earlier than the White Stones.
Drink: 2021-26 

94
Catena Zapata 2018 Chardonnay Adrianna Vineyard White Stones Vino de Parcela 12.8%
Lightly reserved on the nose, the aromas start with bread crust and lemon. The attack is similar while also bringing a distinctly savory, salty nuance that gives this moderate-bodied wine a mouthwatering edge. As the wine warms up, hints of toasted hazelnuts, yellow apple and nectarine surface. Generally, the oak use is deft and discreet. Tantalizing, beautiful and moreish, it boasts is a lovely, lacey texture. The brisk, refreshing finish offers good length with lightly earthy hints. 
Drink: 2021-26 

Reds
96
Catena Zapata 2016 Nicolas Catena Zapata 13.5% $85
A surge of mulberry, blueberry and mocha comes from the brooding, dark-colored core of this youthful wine. With air, the flavors also include lit fireplace and underbrush. It's as juicy on the palate as the fruit-forward nose promises, and the palate feel is as caressing as velvet. The lingering finish adds a hint of bitter, dark chocolate with a light pinch of tannins and reverberating, well-pitched acidity. There's also a lightly chewy element to this wine coming from the exemplary concentration. Very drinkable now but only showing a glimmer of its potential, I would put this away for a few more years at the very least.
Drink: 2023-30 

95
Catena Zapata 2017 Malbec Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae Vino de Parcela 14% $120
A complex, attractive nose soars out of the glass offering grilled meat, mulberry preserves, black currants and thyme. Beautifully balanced, the soaring freshness accompanied by supple, finessed tannins makes this wine feel almost medium in body - an impressive feat for a 14% abv wine. Integrated oak nuances of coffee and dark chocolate add intrigue and a welcome hint of dryness on the lingering, scented finish. This is beguiling in its precision.
Drink: 2021-27

95
Catena Zapata 2017 Malbec Adrianna Vineyard River Stones Vino de Parcela 14.1% $150
Showing a very different character from the Mundus Bacillus Terrae, this is a more guttural wine with an overt but brooding nose. Forward aromas of black currants and potting soil fill the palate on first sip. The full body, dense concentration and lavish intensity show a wine that will benefit from aeration - or better yet, oxygenation. Effusive and bold with excellent structure, this is a stunning wine that delivers nicely now but will show even better with time. Seamless and suave, this is beautifully integrated with solid lift molding the generous black plum and boysenberry fruit laced with minerally undertones. 
Drink: 2021-29 

95
Catena Zapata 2018 Malbec Argentino Mendoza 13.8% $100
Deeply colored with a rich, vibrant nose smelling of mulberries, black cherries and fireplace embers, this exuberant Malbec is a head-turner. The palate exudes concentrated, spice-inflected fruit along with suave tannins. The smartly integrated oak offers mere hints of coffee bean and smoke. Long, layered and refined, this will age beautifully but can already be enjoyed.
Drink: 2021-28 

94
Catena Zapata 2016 Malbec Nicasia Vineyard 13.8% $100
Opaque and inky in appearance, I expected a more voluptuous wine. However, the high altitude of the Nicasia vineyard conveys very good freshness and structure. Pronounced tar notes jump off the nose and are followed by crunchy black currants, dried cranberries, scraggly underbrush and hard spices. The 50% new French oak melts right into the flavor mix. Slightly coarse, vaguely rustic tannins mesh nicely with refreshing yet discreetly imbedded acidity. Wholesome and mouthfilling, this is the boldest, most swashbuckling of the group tasted here, and it has the structure and concentration to continue improving in bottle. It hardly tastes five years old!
Drink: 2021-28 

94
Catena Zapata 2016 Malbec Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae Vino de Parcela $136
Suave and sumptuous, this palate-caressing Malbec pops with fruit power. Spicy and herbal with oodles of black berries packed onto the oak-kissed palate, it is surprising that this wine's finish is only medium. Nonetheless, this is the incredibly elegant with streamlined, sculpted tannins and integrated acidity.
Drink: 2021-25 

94
Catena Zapata 2017 Malbec Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae Vino de Parcela 13%
$270
The nose is slightly reserved but shows pretty violet lift. Black plum skin, ripe blackberry and an undertone of charcoal hit the palate. Suave, elegant and seamlessly balanced, this beauty delivers an easy drinkability. The tannins are supple and smooth, the oak is discreet - letting the fruit shine through, and the acidity lifts with an almost invisible hand. Mulberries fill the lingering, lightly minerally finish. Masterful. Plus, I love the wine's name, "Elegant Microbes of the Earth", which in Latin sounds fancy yet in English might make you wonder if you should pour it into your glass. (Yes, you should!)
Drink: 2021-26

92
Catena Zapata 2017 Malbec Catena Alta Historic Rows 13.8%
Prominent oak starts off the nose of this intensely perfumed, beetle shell black-cored wine. With air, it turns into a more elaborate display of Christmas spice accented with mulberries and plum preserves. Richly layered with compelling notes of peat and pencil shavings, this is classic Argentinian Malbec. Firm tannins and well-placed acidity nicely frame the full yet well-balanced body. This could use some time for the oak to further integrate.
Drink: 2022-25