Posts in Italy
Tremendous Value in Alto Adige

I love wines from Alto Adige. Lodged between the rest of Italy and Austria - with a sliver of its borders against Switzerland, the region’s producers craft wines with Italian exuberance and Austrian precision. Moreover, the dynamics of the Alpine duo of chilly temperatures and sunshine taste delicious in the glass.

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GOOD Vermentino

I adore Vermentino (aka Rolle, Pigato and Favorita) for its floral nose scented with honeysuckle, yellow pears and sometimes star fruit. While I’ve tasted it in its many forms for a long time, my keen interest began only about six years ago, as I noticed that many places other than Tuscany, Sardegna, Corsica and the Languedoc were making Vermentino.

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The Pinnacle of Prosecco: Conegliano Valdobbiadene

Prosecco recently has seen a tidal wave of change at every quality level. The popularity of the DOC wines has driven global markets for sparkling wines in recent years, making even Champagne sweat.

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Paolo e Noemia d’Amico

Hailing from a corner of Lazio that overlaps Umbria – almost smack in the center of Italy, this family-run estate makes wines primarily from international grape varieties. Whereas most Italian wines made from “outsider” grapes tend to be rich and boisterous, these are all incredibly graceful.


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Hit & Miss: Vietti 2016 Roero Arneis with Thai Sweet & Sour Tofu & Steamed Salmon with Asparagus, Ginger & Basil

Roero Arneis can be all up-front aroma with no follow-through on the palate. This one is distinctively different. That isn’t only because Vietti was the first to bottle this long-lost variety as a varietal wine all the way back in 1967. (Yep, old vines help give depth of flavor.)

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Castello di Spessa 2015 Releases

The results of the radical shake-up of Italian white wines over the last two decades continue to surface in the US markets, and this fall I had the chance to taste through a new range of wines available from Vias Wine. The wines of the grandly historic Castello di Spessa, which dates back to the 13th or 3rd century CE (either being plenty old!) offer an excellent representation of high quality winemaking with local varieties without wallet-emptying prices.

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Donnafugata 2014 Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria

This wine defies my typical usage suggestions for sweet wines. I often think of sweet wines as “dessert in a glass”, or something that can replace dessert when thirst still calls yet the tummy is too full for more food. One of the primary differences here is that the Ben Ryé possesses a decadently sweet attack yet a surprisingly dry and clean finish.

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Donnafugata 2015 Releases

Donnafugata 2015 Grillo Sur Sur: This wine’s color looks pale, like lemon pulp in color. It’s savory on the nose with notes of crushed slate, grapefruit zest and veggie broth. This is a relatively lean Grillo – and all the better this, rather than some of the variety’s more blowsy expressions – that is nonetheless character-filled.

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Inama – My Stardard Setter for Soave

I’m not entirely certain, but I seem to remember that Inama’s was the first Soave Classico I tasted.

I think that any time you taste a wine for the first time, it becomes a standard bearer. As such, I feel lucky that Inama guided me to understanding Soave - the best of Soave, that is. But, that was (gulp) 15 years ago. Both Soave, Inama and I have changed. What’s happy to note is that if we all have, I still think Inama is brilliant.

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Maeli Colli Euganei

Maeli 2014 Bianco Infinito Veneto IGT: This is a highly unusual blend of Moscato and Chardonnay vinified to dryness. Harmonious yet full of contrasts, this smells of Moscato but tastes like Chardonnay. Light in body and dry from start to finish, I can only describe it as the unlikely but enticing combination of Moscato d’Asti and Premier Cru Chablis.

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Recent Releases from Boroli

When I was offered the opportunity to taste the latest releases from Boroli, I jumped. I loved the recent story of the winery discovering a long-lost cru, La Brunella, in Piedmont’s Castiglione Falletto. While you’re waiting to get your hands on some La Brunella, check out these gems to reassure yourself it’s worth the wait!

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Wine List Pick: Locanda Marinelli (Farra di Soligo, Veneto, Italy)

It’s rare to see wine lists in wine-producing European countries that bother with wines outside their own country, sometimes even outside their region. This was not the case at Locanda Marinelli, which offers some excellent grower Champagnes and top-notch Burgundies, among others.

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