Posts in France
What's New From Bellenos

This trio of wines confirms that Nicholas Potel is clearly on his way to crushing it with this wine line, just as I suspected last year. As it says on the rosé wine label, the Bellenos wines are "Burgundy from the Heart and Sol", sol being earth. The wines all taste definitively Burgundian, but the very gentle prices don't look Burgundian at all.

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Château Lauriga Pinks

Folded into the Jean-Claude Mas portfolio in 2016, this old Catalan property is bathed in Mediterranean sunshine yet cooled by the Tramontane wind that pushes from toward the sea. Historically planted with local varieties like those tasted below, these vines were recently joined by Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre and Merlot. Somewhat confusingly, the wines go by both Domaine and Château Lauriga. Nevertheless, they offer good value and are attractively packaged.

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A Mini En Primeur Tasting Chez Moi: Château Séraphine & Clos Cantenac

A world almost entirely closed to travel, a cancelled Bordeaux En Primeur Campaign and persnickety, new DHL compliance requirements in the US are nothing compared to the tenacity of Martin Krajewski, owner of Château Séraphine and Clos Cantenac. And so it was that I held a mini En Primeur chez moi.

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Domaine de Cala 2019 Rosé Classic Coteaux Varois en Provence

Joachim Splichal collaborated with his sons, Nicolas and Stéphane, and the winemaking team of rosé specialist Bruno Tringali to craft the fourth vintage of this estate-grown and decidedly Provençal pink. It is a highly inviting and complex blend of Grenache 48%, Cinsault 35%, Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino) 6%, Syrah 5%, Carignan 4% and Grenache Blanc 2%.

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Domaine Vrignaud - 2018 Vintage Preview

I've been visiting Guillaume for four or five years, and his wines are scintillating every time. He easily makes it into my 2018 Top 10 List. Guillaume's wines are made with as much TLC as his vines are tended. Guillaume finds the 2018 to be a "pretty vintage with good structure", adding there was no need to acidify. Moreover, he never has, not even in 2003. The wines below are listed in the order of tasting.

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Strategy in Burgundy 2018: Chablis

So, what about 2018 Chablis? First, there's a lot of it. Second, the excellent, the good and the "meh" abound. Winemakers had a lot to contend with in the vineyards as well as in the cellars, making making the sundry results unsurprising. Fear not. If you know your budget (and do be aware in advance of the impacts the Trump administration's implemented and pending tariffs) and have a sense of your style preferences, and you'll do just fine.

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Domaine François Raveneau - 2018 Vintage Preview

Isabelle Raveneau hired 33% more harvest helpers to bring in her 2018 crop. For the first time since 2011, her cellar was full; the domaine's full yield potential was reached. Moreover, she called the grapes "excellent", and Isabelle is not one to embellish. Neither the warmth of the vintage nor the house style marked the wines as much as their terroirs. In a region as distinctly diverse in terroir and as laser-focused on a single variety as Chablis, I always find that thrilling.

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Vincent Dauvissat - 2018 Vintage Preview

"A lot of great wine was distilled in 2018," Vincent Dauvissat lamented. Vincent had never seen a vintage like 2018 - unprecedented, high volumes coupled with top quality. (At least chez lui, I'll insert with regard to the last bit. Not everyone was as successful as he was in managing the 2018 vintage.) Quelle frustration!

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White Rhône Wines: Petite Quantities & Petite Prices

Rhône Valley white wines generally are overlooked, save a few collectibles. Considering that only 6% of the region's volume of wine is white, that might not sound surprising. However, the Rhône Valley is France's second largest AOC. Still, it does turn out to be a very small amount of white wine when you run the math. Burgundy makes almost five times as much white wine in a good harvest! So, while everyone else is clamoring for hard-to-find Burgundies with much heftier price tags, shop for some of these rarer and far less pricey Rhône blancs!

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Maison de la Chapelle 2017

Winemakers travel so much these days - especially Grégory Viennois of Maison de la Chapelle and Domaine Laroche, both located in northern Burgundy's Yonne region - that it is not infrequent to taste without them, even when I'm on their home turf. I am grateful, however, that Gregory left the Maison de la Chapelle wines for me to taste when I was visiting in July. This gave me the chance to taste them over the course of several evenings. All of these wines open up nicely with air and time, which is not something that I would have witnessed tasting them in one go with Grégory.

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The Bollinger Non-Vintages - A Toast to Celebrating Summer

I recently had the chance to taste through these two wines thoughtfully, watching them evolve for several hours after opening. The two tenants of Bollinger's style were clearly present from start to finish: the attractive oxidation from the oak barrel aging of at least half of the base wines (all vintage and reserve wines are made exclusively using oak barrels from a range of ages) and the house's signature power supplied by a majority of Pinot Noir in the two blends.

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Flung Across the Bordeaux Region, The "Côtes" de Bordeaux

Five communes comprise the Côtes de Bordeaux, and they're a curious bunch, geographically speaking. While technically all on Bordeaux's Right Bank, they don't sit together, save Francs and Castillon. 

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HIt & Miss: Côte Mas NV Crémant de Limoux Rosé Brut with Honey-Drizzled Goat Cheese Toasts & Prosciutto-Wrapped Cantaloupe

This pale pink bubbly's sweetly scented, dried rose petals laced with peach and dried strawberries lead to a generous body creamy with bubbles. The back palate turns nicely focused with thirst-quenching, acidic lift. Delightfully easy-drinking and light-bodied with plenty of mineral elegance and just a hint of toast, I prefer serving this with hors d'oeuvres rather than at the table.

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Easy-Going Reds for a Sanssouci Summer

It's easy for reds to feel ponderously heavy in the summer, especially when they are concentrated, elevated in alcohol and lavished with new oak. But, we all still want to drink red wines from time to time during warm weather. Leave it to the out-of-the-box renegade - and seriously good palate and globe-trotting winemaker - Ernst Loosen to find not only a solution but also a very gently priced one. Moreover,  the wines come from France's Languedoc, a region formerly strapped with the reputation of producing clumsy, jammy wines. 

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Chef Joachim Splichal: Part II

I met Joachim Splichal when I was the National Wine Director for Smith & Wollensky Restaurant group. Smith & Wollensky was publicly traded and a hostile take-over was underway. His Patina Restaurant Group purchased the Smith & Wollensky restaurants outside of New York City, and I figured I'd never again cross paths with him.

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A Surprising Rosé Duo from the Pays d’Oc

These two rosés surprised me.  

I expected the Arrogant Frog to be the less expensive and less complex wine. This was without knowing that the Côté Mas wine is to be marketing in 1 liter bottles – my sample arrived in a 750 ml. Yes, I succumbed to label bias. Happily, it was only briefly. 

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