White Rhône Wines: Petite Quantities & Petite Prices

Rhône Valley white wines generally are overlooked, save a few collectibles. Considering that only 6% of the region's volume of wine is white, that might not sound surprising. However, the Rhône Valley is France's second largest AOC. Still, it does turn out to be a very small amount of white wine when you run the math. Burgundy makes almost five times as much white wine in a good harvest! So, while everyone else is clamoring for hard-to-find Burgundies with much heftier price tags, shop for some of these rarer and far less pricey Rhône blancs!

90
Domaine de la Janasse 2017 Côtes du Rhône Blanc 13.5% $20
This exotic and beautifully perfumed wine has a plethora of fragrances zooming out of the glass. Scents of lavender, lily of the valley and walnut skin are highlighted by sweet melon and dried mango. The palate is delightfully silky with a vague plumpness and lilting, well-placed acidity. This mix of 50% Grenache Blanc, 15% Clairette, 15% Bourboulenc, 10% Viognier and 10% Roussanne is organically and biodynamically farmed then hand-harvested before being vinified in stainless steel then aged in large, older oak. This tastes much more noble than "just" a Côtes du Rhône Blanc to me!
Drink: 2019-22  

89
Cave de Tain 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Grand Classique 13.5% $30
When I was an MW Candidate, I recall reading that Marsanne was a variety with "haunting" aromatics centered around an unusual combination of non-fruit characters. True to this description, this 100% Marsanne grown on granite slopes does have notes of candle wax, Elmer's Glue and old walnuts. However, it also has lots of fruit and floral tones, including melon-flavored fruit tape, star fruit, yellow plums and lily of the valley. It's exotic and layered! It feels nicely developed on the medium-plus bodied palate with a wholesome vibrancy to the mouthfilling but structured palate. Nothing sticks out; everything is perfectly in place as this wine gracefully blossoms into full maturity.
Drink: 2019-21 

89
Domaine de la Réméjeanne 2016 Côtes du Rhône Blanc Les Arbousiers 13.5% $20
I distinctly recall meeting Rémy Klein, the owner of Domaine de la Réméjeanne, in April 2004. It had been quite a trek to find his winery in the higher altitudes of the Cévennes mountains. The cooler climate there, coupled with the cool limestone, loess and gravel soils help to give the Réméjeanne wines lift. This is a blend of 30% Roussanne, 30% Clairette, 20% Viognier, 10% Bourboulenc and 10% undefined grapes that is fermented with indigenous yeasts. Deep yellow in color, this wine's visual really draws in the eyes. It's a striking color for such a young wine, but it's not atypical for white Rhône varieties. The aromatics are sexy and hedonistic, and these initial impressions are amplified by the density and lusciousness of the palate. There's honeysuckle, lavender water, white nectarine and verbena tea that provide sheer delight right now. The lightly lusty viscosity is nicely supported by integrated acidity. Alas, the finish is fairly brief or I would have placed this in the 90s.
Drink: 2019-22

88
Domaine des Amphores 2017 St.-Joseph Blanc Altitude 300 12.5% $20
A blend of 80% Roussanne and 20% Marsanne, this granitic soil-derived, organically cultivated wine shows a clingy oiliness in texture. That's rather unusual for a 12.5% abv wine, but it's not at all unpleasant. This palate feel comes not only from the grape varieties but also the wine's oak cask aging, especially the 33% aged in acacia wood. The nose smells of honeycomb, heather and peach fuzz. It's compellingly medium-bodied with perfectly ripe and sensual flavors. The nicely concentrated, succulent persimmon tones are smartly contrasted by a mouth-puckering flick of lemon curd. The combination leads to a modest but pleasantly mouthcoating and lightly minerally finish. This tastes like it is reaching its prime right now.
Drink: 2019-20