Domaine Vrignaud - 2018 Vintage Preview

Domaine Vrignaud - 2018 Vintage Preview
19 July 2019

I've been visiting Guillaume for four or five years, and his wines are scintillating every time. He easily makes it into my 2018 Top 10 List. Guillaume's wines are made with as much TLC as his vines are tended. With the family domaine for 20 years and farming organically for half that time, his vines were certified organic in 2013. The miserable 2016 vintage saw him leave organic practices that year (like everyone else in Chablis, save one producer), but he was back to organics in 2017, and the vineyards are expected to be recertified for the 2020 vintage. 

Guillaume finds the 2018 to be a "pretty vintage with good structure", adding there was no need to acidify. Moreover, he never has, not even in 2003. The wines below are listed in the order of tasting. 

89
Petit Chablis 2018 12.5%
Starting with the spicy and chalky nose, this is clean, crisp and very Chablis. The flavors of green apple skin and lime pith have staying power on the finish. This comes from the plateau above Les Clos (an exceptional terroir for Petit Chablis) in the back of the Fontenay side. Guillaume planted some massale here in 2019. This is one of those über-Petit Chablis wines!
Drink: 2019-23 

90
Chablis 2018 13%
This is blend of 10 vineyards coming from about 14 hectares (of a 29-hectare domaine), so there is a wide array of terroirs here. Some of the parcels are large, as big as five hectares! This starts with a struck flint nose followed by Gala apple skin and a hint of fennel bulb. The medium body is framed by well-placed, lifting acidity and a vague tannic tug that meld into a very harmonious structure.
Drink: 2020-24

91
Chablis Les Champréaux 2018 13%
Coming from vines planted in 1978, this lieu-dit fruit was vinified and aged in 30% older 500 L futs and stainless steel. It is pure and tangy with a supple roundness in the mid-palate, all which make this very drinkable. Flavors of yellow apple and baking spice meet a touch of tannin on the finish.
Drink: 2020-24 

92
Chablis Fourchaume PC 2018 13%
Made without oak influence, this is a bright wine with an ample fruit core tasting of freshly-picked heirloom apples and Wonder Bread. The lightly creamy, medium finish shows a pleasant firmness that bodes well for keeping.
Drink: 2020-26 

95
Chablis Fourchaume PC Les Vaupulans 13%
This is a fantastic Vaupulans! It comes from vines planted in 1986 and the top of the slope is nothing but small stones. Like the Champréaux, 30% sees older 500 L futs during vinification and aging. Aromas of Pink Lady apples, hay and baguette lead to a concentrated and long finish. It's a bit Côte d'Or-ian in its rich mid-palate, but it is absolutely brilliantly balanced.
Drink: 2020-26

93
Chablis Mont de Milieu PC 13%
Incredibly minerally with lifted and almost pungent acidity, this shows aromas of tart pomelo, white grapefruit and melon. Guillaume thinks there's some Chardonnay Musqué in the vineyard; he loves eating the berries here! Layered, minerally, youthful and mouthwatering, this will develop beautifully in the cellar.
Drink: 2020-26 

95
Chablis Fourchaume PC Les Côtes de Fontenay 13%
This juice comes from one hectare of old vines planted in 1955 at the western "point" of Côte de Fontenay in Fourchaume. (The Vrignaud label reads Les Côtes and the cadastre map reads Le Côte.) The nose doesn't hold back, sending out inviting aromas of spice, earth, struck flint and cheese rind. The medium body turns lemony and shows scintillating purity and vigor. The super salty finish with a hint of oyster shell gives this a lovely savoriness. Guillaume feels that he used to harvest this a bit too late but that starting with 2018 he began to harvest more correctly. This is an astonishingly good wine and it offers so much wine for its price.
Drink: 2020-28 

94
Chablis Blanchot GC 13%
Showing true Blanchot character, this elegant wine starts with pretty top notes of white flowers and donut peach. Supple on the palate, a racy acidity and mild touch of tannin give focus and length. The pithy finish is delightfully spicy. Guillaume buys the must for this bottling.
Drink: 2020-30