Bad Wine – Know the Signs!

Not a member of this simultaneously très sérieux and bon vivant group, I engaged them in two radically different seminars. First came the fun stuff – a competitive blending seminar using the components of the 2006 Lynch-Bages to try to reconstitute the grand vin. Second came the stinky stuff – a presentation on wine faults. After all, the last thing you want is to be uncertain whether your Cru Classé is in top form. The group sniffed cautiously through their glasses, trying to suss out the faults exhibited

Read More
Cross-Comparison of Pinot Noir Clones

Figuring out where these clones come from is a bit like researching a family tree before the internet. There’s a fair bit of uncertainty amongst the researchers themselves, so where does that leave the rest of us? Luckily, the chart makes it pretty easy to cross-reference with its column titled “Also Known As”, in which almost every clone other than the Dijon clones show at least one other name. From the US Perspective, the source of Martini 58 is Louis Martini in the USA. From the New Zealand Perspective, the source of Clone 13 is UC Davis, USA. The Australians indicate two origins for their G8V3: UC Davis, USA and Switzerland. Now that we’ve figured that one out, let’s look at the David Bruce Clone. Apparently it was cultivated first by Paul Masson and then by Martin Ray in the US…but way back when, it immigrated from somewhere in the Côte d’Or.

Read More
Meeting the Young Talents of Burgundy

I joined the gatherings on Friday, eager to attend one tasting in particular: Le Salon des Jeunes Talents. This group, technically known as La Groupe des Jeunes Professionnels de la Vigne, is composed of winemakers under the age of 40. (It appeared to me this cap is a bit flexible, but I decided it would be indiscrete to ask.)  The association aims to unite the region’s young winemakers and to support their development with seminars on subjects as diverse as how to present their wines in English and how to operate and maintain high clearance tractors.

Read More
In Search of Pinot…Usually Noir

Given my affection for Pinot Noir and Burgundy, and given the fact I’ve spent an incredible number of hours evaluating the quality of wines in order to pass the Master of Wine exam, I take quality references very seriously. However, within quality designations, there’s wiggle room. Last night provided a perfect example.

Read More
Preserving Intangible & Tangible Heritage in Wine

I recently read a Geographic Expeditions newsletter that began with an excerpt from a Jonathan Keats piece titled “Why Wikipedia is as Important as the Pyramids” in Wired magazine. In it, Keats campaigns for Wikipedia to become the first digital World Heritage Site. His article debates the relevance of some of UNESCO’s 936 World Heritage Sites and outlines how UNESCO has grappled with the concept of intangible cultural heritage (for example, music versus monuments, mines or water systems). This brought to mind the bid by Burgundy’s Côte d’Or to classify its “climats”, or vineyards, among UNESCO’s hand-picked honorees. From my viewpoint, Burgundy’s climats cover both the intangible and the tangible angles of cultural heritage.

Read More
Jeannie Explores German Wines & Asian Flavors

This Wednesday I attended an engaging, exploratory lunch hosted by Wines of Germany and led by my friend Jeannie Cho Lee MW. Here are some of the take-aways I found most fascinating: whereas Westerners tend to measure how much acidity is apparent in a wine, Asians tend to focus on how acidity feels on the palate; the progression of food and wine in a Chinese meal is quite different from that at a Western table….

Read More
#PortDay

I often resolve to drink more Port. I love it in all its manifestations (white, ruby, tawny, vintage and, especially, colheita. Yes, there are even a few affable rosé versions but those are brand one-offs.) I always resolve drink a few of them in the upcoming winter. This winter has been no different than the last many.

Read More
The New Yorker Wine Cartoons

Five years ago a friend gave me a book of wine-inspired cartoons from The New Yorker. It has been years since I flipped through it. So, when it caught my eye this weekend, I picked it up. Many are worth a hearty laugh and a surprising number of them are oriented to the "cork dork" crowd. Perhaps this shouldn't be surprising for a publication that appeals to erudite readers?

Read More
What Do You Drink with a Master of Wine?

Given the spirit of the holiday season leads to many shared meals and festive moments with friends, I’ve not surprisingly encountered plenty of pals hesitant to offer me a glass of wine. I can see it in their eyes and hear it in their pre-calculated verbal presentations. They seem to be pleading with Dionysus that I will want one of their small batch beers. Each time, I guess that they feel more confident on their beer choices than their wine choices.

Read More
Italian Wine Advent Calendar, Week 4

It’s the home stretch; it’s the last leg of the marathon. A week of merriment…and still more preparation. It’s a never-ending circle, this holiday process! Remember, there’s always a bottom to the bottle, so don’t be caught short on stock.

Read More
Italian Wine Advent Calendar, Week 3

This is a week where “home run” and “pinch hitter” wines are both often needed. Mix and match throughout this week’s Advent Calendar suggestions as required!

Read More
Italian Wine Advent Calendar, Week 1

There are so many wines to open as the next set of holidays approach, and there are so many choices! It’s hard to know where to start, much less select some bottles, especially when Italy is under consideration. However, I taste dozens of Italian wines each month, so here’s my go at it. These suggestions are based on my notes for wines tasted in the last four months (meaning they should generally be in retail stores now), in quasi-Advent Calendar style….

Read More