Wine List Pick: Aldo Sohm Wine Bar (Manhattan, New York)

The unassuming and ultimate wine guru host Aldo Sohm just opened a wine bar with chef Eric Ripert. The duo has long worked their Midtown magic at Le Bernardin, which connects to the wine bar by underground passage. In this chic yet comfy space permeated by 60’s, 70’s and 80’s tunes, you can feast on wine selections geared to the geek, yet not foreign to the main-streamer.

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Reflections on Chablis

Chablis trumps the Côte d’Or in 2012 whites. While Chablis also experienced hail, it came in April before the berries set. This reduced the crop size from the very start - earlier-harvesting areas lost anywhere between 5 to 10% to up to 30% in the Grand and Premier Crus.

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Reflections on the Côte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais

The wines of these terroirs represent some of Burgundy’s best values, and Burgundy is in sore need of values. The occasional gem that will age to benefit is a both a steal and a prize.

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Hit & Miss: Donnafugata 2013 Lighea with Shrimp, Avocado & Grapefruit Salad and Arugula & Green Bean Salad

This varietal Muscat, locally called Zibibbo, starts with serious aromatic pop. It’s plump with lime zest, pink grapefruit, white peppercorn and Mediterranean scrub-baking-under-a-hot-summer-sun. The palate is crisp, dry and light. The combination is so drinkable that you just might think the liquid is evaporating from your glass.

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Hit & Miss: Château Lassègue 2005 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé with Duck Sausage & Pork Shoulder with Demi-Glace

Vintage 2005 was among the best Bordelais vintages in the last 20 years. This wine epitomizes its force. Nine years on, it isn’t showing a hint of development. It’s belligerently youthful.

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The Annual VDP Auctions: Buying Straight from the Cellars of Germany’s Best Wine Producers

There is a weekend of auctions that has not hit most wine buyers' radars, and all the wines come direct from the producers' cellars. Dating back to 1897, the VDP (its German name translates as The Association of German Quality and Prädikat Wine Estates) auctions sell primarily Riesling but Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and other varieties as well. 

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Wine List Pick: The Ryland Inn (Whitehouse Station, New Jersey)

Value and splurge coexist in this deep collection, so peruse if you have the time. The Ryland Inn presumably inherited the cellar of the restaurant formerly inhabiting its space, accounting for its nice smattering of back vintages, including from regions other than you usually expect – namely Burgundy and Bordeaux.

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