Trio of Adami Proseccos
The Adami family has been making single vineyard wines for 85 years. That’s remarkable considering that the region is known for its blended wines. Moreover only a decade into production, founder Abele Adami realized the superiority of hillside vineyards. It’s been all about the hills, or the “rive” in Italian, ever since.
My number one take away from this tasting is how remarkably finessed the impression of the bubbles are in all of the wines.
Prosecco Brut Garbèl NV $15
The name “Garbèl” refers to a local word for a wine that is dry, crisp and refreshingly tart.
Lightly scented and pale-colored, this is a discreet Prosecco. It is vaguely floral with flavors of Canary melon and green grapes underscored by chalky tones. With 13 g/L of residual sugar, 6 grams of TA and a pH of 3.20, its sweetness is noticeable. While it’s pleasant for a well-chilled glass on a warm day, but it’s a bit too obviously sweet to my palate to sip much more. (That written, I must say that I almost never eat anything sweet, unless it is a piece of fruit.) The bubbles, however, are impressively fine with no aggressive, abrasive texture, but rather providing elegance and the lightest of lift. The finish is swift, but the overall impression – my personal drinking preference aside – is harmonious and well-balanced.
Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene Bosco di Gica Brut NV $19
The Bosco di Gica is the name of where the family’s first vineyards are located.
This Prosecco has about 4% Chardonnay blended in with the traditional Glera grape. The grapes are sourced from the towns of Valdobbiadene, Vidor and Farra di Soligo. This wine has graceful bubbles but is edgy with its brut style. With 10 g/L residual sugar, 6 g/L TA and 3.20 pH, numbers-wise it is interesting to compare to the Garbèl, though it is different in so many other ways. Its acidic cut is just enough to be bitter, giving it a less finessed palate presence. Its biting tones come through with a clear note of green apple peel and pomelo pith. That said, while its bubbles faded overnight, I much preferred the wine on the second day when its aromatic tones were more voluminous. Definitely a bubbly to drink in a wine glass and not a flute.
Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene Vigneto Giardino Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto 2017 $22
This delicate and light Glera from the Colbertaldo hillside vineyard in the Vidor commune of the Veneto has just enough residual sugar (20 g/L, also with 6 g/L TA and 3.2 pH…the consistency of the numbers in this trio of wines other than sugar seems suspicious) coating to give it the perfect amount of lift and seamlessness. It’s only lightly floral, but it is supremely graceful. For most residual sugar Proseccos, this is not the outcome. Then again, most of those aren’t also single vineyards. In this bottling, it is most impressive how the minerality shines through and the bubbles are so delicate as to be barely noticeable. There is no question this is the most refined of the line-up in terms of palate precision and balance. This is a lovely sipper full of flavors of white peach, honeydew melon and yellow apple that is highly delightful on its own or easily enjoyed with sweeter main dishes like shrimp with risotto.