Graves 2019 Values Report: Bottled Wines Reviewed
Graves is where Bordeaux's first vineyards were planted, yet the AOC remains a bit off the radar. Stretched along the Left Bank of the Garonne River, the area smartly takes its name from its famous soils: graves or graviers, meaning gravels.
This is one of many areas in Bordeaux where good potential lies for a high ratio of quality to value. This is especially true of wines that are not part of the Crus Classés de Graves, which account for only 16 of the 200 vignerons. Below is a small tasting of bottled 2019s from select producers sent directly from the properties this late spring.
Prices noted here are SRPs from the producers or my extrapolations based on European prices where a winery does not have a US importer. I've noted my personal favorites with an "*" and the most attractive quality to price ratio wines with "QPR".
Whites
92*/QPR
Château de Chantegrive 2019 Graves Blanc Cuvée Caroline 13% $23
Made by the Lévêque family, this complex, concentrated and elegant white Bordeaux is one not to miss. It is a charmer! This is 50% Sémillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Sauvignon Gris. Fragrant on the nose, the wine tastes of perfectly ripe peach and lightly toasted oatmeal with whiffs of white flowers. Medium in body with a rounded and moderately broad mid-palate, the wine is generous, very well-balanced and lengthy in finish. I'd stock up on this one for year-round drinking. Moreover, this will show nicely for several years down the road.
Drink: 2021-25
91 / QPR
Clos Floridène 2019 Graves Blanc 12.5% $27
Composed of 55% Sémillon and 45% Sauvignon Blanc, this Graves white named after its founders, Florence and Denis Dubourdieu, delivers a solid performance as usual. Thanks to its fermentation and aging in oak casks for nine months, the texture is supple and vaguely creamy with plentiful and refreshing acidic verve. The flavors sing with exotic fruits laced with flinty tones. Pristine clean, this is a taut, focused and classy blend that delivers nicely for its price point. All fruit was manually harvested then fermented and aged in barriques and larger wood barrels for nine months.
Drink: 2021-25
90* / QPR
Château de Chantegrive 2019 Graves Blanc 13% $20
Bright and light with a lemon curd-like tingle and a pinpoint perfect juxtaposition of fruit fleshiness and crackling acidity, this combo of 40% Sémillon with 60% Sauvignon Blanc is delightful. Its palate is moderately broad and the medium weight carries plentiful concentration to allow this to hold well several years. In aromas, an exotic grapiness is accompanied by lime blossom and light toasty notes. Plenty of sweet spice and yellow tree fruits like plums and pluots deliver a solid finish.
Drink: 2021-24
89* / QPR
Château Magneau 2019 Graves Blanc 12.5% $18
Made of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Sémillon and 5% Muscadelle with an average vine age of 35 years and harvested both manually and mechanically, this is a wholesome, delightful white. The Sauvignon Blanc sees nothing but stainless steel, but the Sémillon is aged for seven months in new French oak barrels. There is a delightful toasty tone that may hail from the lees aging that really gives the wine depth and breadth of flavor as well as body. Tasting of Pomelo, star fruit and yellow tomatoes with hints of bay leaf and spice, this medium-bodied wine shows good concentration and lingers on the palate.
Drink: 2021-24
89
Château Sirio 2019 Graves Blanc 13% $25
A combination of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon from vines averaging 35 years of age, each variety is fermented separately in stainless steel vats. The Sauvignon then remains in stainless steel vats while the Sémillion ages seven months in new French oak barrels. The result is a savory, nuanced wine that shows only a hint of oak smokiness. Pineapple, pomelo and ginger give the wine girth yet also zest. The creamy mouthfeel glide benefits from contrasting, zippy acidity. Easy to drink now, this will pair with a wide variety of foods.
Drink: 2021-23
88
Château de Respide 2019 Graves Blanc Callipyge 13.5% $20
A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc with 40% Sémillon from vines averaging 35 years in age, this is vinified and aged in French oak barriques. A tiny bit of cork taint is evident in my bottle, but it is still possible to get a good view on the overall wine. Dense in concentration with a ripe apple core, this has good - if medium - acidity and a dry, focused finish. Toast, vanilla, ripe pear and yellow cherries carry the palate.
Drink: 2021-23
88
Château Tourteau Chollet 2019 Graves Blanc 13% $24
This pure Sauvignon Blanc fermented in stainless steel with lies regularly stirred has an exotic touch to it with nectarine, passion fruit and quince leading the way. A caressing texture attests to the lees kept in suspension during elevage, and the medium, integrated acidity nicely supports the ample body. Don't serve this one too cold to really enjoy its broad array of flavors. This nicely supports bolder foods.
Drink: 2021-23
86 / QPR
Château Lagrange 2019 Graves Blanc $16
Part of Vignobles Reynaud, this white Graves comes from a 2.35 ha plot that produced just 750 9L-cases in 2019. Pronounced yellow in color, this 100% Sauvignon was fermented in stainless steel tanks. Sporting an exotic fruit nose, its flavors are similar: ripe yellow pear, guava and a generous dollop of musk melon. Though only 12.5% abv, the rather relaxed acidity makes this feel heavier than I would have expected. Perhaps that's coming from the richness of 30% new barriques and regular batonnage over six months. The dry, short finish suggests early drinking.
Drink: 2021-23
86
Vieux Château Gaubert 2019 Graves Blanc 12.5% $22
This is the main wine of Vieux Château Gaubert, as two-thirds of its vineyard of six hectares is devoted to this white. Its an even-split blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, but the Sémillon dominates in texture and aromatics. The Sémillon's edge is aided by the oak cask fermentation with 35% new oak. The wine is lush and broad on the palate with rather lax acidity and ripe fruit making the wine feel a bit heavy. However, the dry and pithy finish cleans up the back palate. Exotic fruits, golden raisins and brioche saturate the palate with good fruit concentration.
Drink: 2021-23
Reds
90
Château Martignac 2019 Graves Rouge 13.5% $NA
Since 1847, the Labuzan family has cared for this property in Portets. This vintage of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines averaging 35 years of age presents supremely ripe fruits immersed in one-third new French oak. It's stylistically bombastic - in fact the literature says, "...since 1847, our family has crafted very big wines...." Still, there is good acidic relief and a fine line of tannins to support the unctuous layers of fruit. Blackberries, cassis and blueberry cobbler fruits line the palate while hints of lavender provide some charismatic contrast to the fruit load. The tannins are super juicy and refined and the acidity is very well-placed. While the exuberant style may be slightly polarizing, this wine is well-balanced, wholesome in flavors and sure to be met with great appreciation where bold styles are in vogue. (PS This is a cousin property to the Château de Gravières Rouge.)
Drink: 2021-26
90* / QPR
Château Sirio 2019 Graves Rouge 13% $28
This is a highly enticing wine that is drinking very well already. Packed with flavor, it is aromas are classically Bordelais, starting with evergreen, damp forest floor and cigar wrapper. The concentrated fruit flavors taste of black plums and cassis with gentle red cherry nuances on the lightly smoky and deeply mineral finish. Juicy at the hearty core with bracing acidity and well-groomed, lightly clingy tannins, this pure and focused red has just a bit of everything right now as well as the gusto to mature nicely in the mid-term. This 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon blend from vines averaging 30 years of age brilliantly over-delivers.
Drink: 2021-26
90* / QPR
Clos Floridène 2019 Graves Rouge NA% $28
This has just a dash of everything one needs in a good, mid-term, red Bordeaux. Its aromas and flavors are classic and its structure is refreshing even in the face of very good concentration. This is highly drinkable already, and its well-woven and complex flavors of black currant, black plum, tobacco leaf and graphite will make this interesting to follow through the mid-term. This is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Merlot. Like its cousin property, Château Haura, this is vinified in stainless steel with pigeage for extraction. Unlike the Haura, however, the notes here indicated 12 months of barrique aging rather than just "barrel" aging. I'm assuming the Haura is aged in larger formats.
Drink: 2021-26
89 / QPR
Château Haura 2019 Graves Rouge NA% $20
Previously a property best-known for its sweet white wines, when the late Denis Dubourdieu began renting the original château property in 2002, a focus to make red wines began. The Dubourdieu family subsequently acquired adjoining plots to expand the Graves Rouge production. Made of Cabernet Sauvignon with 40% Merlot, the wine is fermented in stainless steel vats - with the unusual twist of extraction by pigeage - before 12 months of barrel maturation. Reserved when first opened, this greatly benefits from aeration/oxygenation. Fireplace smoke nuances dominate from the start, followed by generously concentrated black plums and sweet cherries and strawberries along with oodles of asphalt and pencil lead. The medium, elegant finish with rounded, refined tannins and a solid acidic perk suggest this should age nicely in the mid-term.
Drink: 2021-26
88 / QPR
Château Cailleton 2019 Graves Rouge 13% $18
A family wine estate since 1973, this Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend is juicy, easy-going and laced with smoky and spicy notes despite seeing no oak whatsoever in its production. The good concentration, layered complexity and moderate length suggest this should hold nicely and possibly develop well in bottle, too. Sultry flavors of mulberry, blackberry and underbrush give this wine immediate allure.
Drink: 2021-24
88
Château des Gravières 2019 Graves Rouge Grand Vin 13% $20
It is clear that Thierry and Denis Labuzan are working toward perfection - from their wine craftsmanship to their marketing. So when they place "Grand Vin" on the label, they mean it in more way than one. It is certainly a showy wine, and they even make reference to crafting big wines as part of their family style. (See the Château Martignac review above.) That it is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon is rather unremarkable for Graves, but its concentration and flavor intensity are. Presumably this is in part due to the terroir and grape-growing philosopy, but there is clearly a lot of TLC in the cellar with a cold soak, low temperature fermentation, micro-oxygenation and malolactic fermentation in vats and barrels. Moreover, all the components are aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, one-third of those new. Interestingly, there is a very strong coconut smell that suggests American oak to me. At any rate, this wine needs time to settle down with all of that oak influence that ultimately has a bristly, drying efefct on the palate. Black cherries, black currants, milk chocolate, coffee grinds and vanilla extract dance on the palate for the time being.
Drink: 2023-25
88 / QPR
Château Lagrange 2019 Graves Rouge 13.5% $16
Lagrange is working toward organic conversion in its vineyards. This wine is a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc that is fermented in stainless steel but aged in oak casks. This wine invites a black-and-blue or saignant (bloody) steak. It even tastes of Worcestershire sauce! Full of cracked peppercorns and blackberries with an anchovy savoriness and piquant edge, this is a hearty wine with good structure and liveliness.
Drink: 2021-25
88 / QPR
Château de Sauvage 2019 Graves Rouge 13.5% $17
Smelling of underbrush and warm bricks, the fruit doesn't kick in until the palate, where it turns up raspberries, dried strawberries and pomegranate seeds. Bright and perky in fruit character, its mouthwatering acidity and textured, lightly chewy tannins give this wine a pleasantly firm structure. There is good purity and medium concentration into the modest but flinty finish. This is easy to appreciate and drinking well now. A blend of 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, all harvested manually, this undergoes malolactic fermentation in new French bariques.
Drink: 2021-25
88
Château de Respide 2019 Graves Rouge Callipyge 13.5% $25
Crafted from 40% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a bold dollop of 20% Petit Verdot, this wine is fermented in stainless steel then aged 12 months in French oak barrels. Nicely concentrated with good fruit ripeness and generosity, the palate is still a bit rigid with firm tannins dominating. The vibrant acidity is well placed. Red plums, goji and grenadine form the palate flavors, and an earthy, lightly spicy finish takes over. This might open up a bit more in another year.
Drink: 2022-25
87
Château de Chantegrive 2019 Graves Rouge 14% $22
A combination of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is an elegant and deeply savory cuvée. Tart red notes show on the nose and palate: cranberry, rhubarb and goji. There is also strong flavor of damp, black tea leaves on the back palate. Medium in concentration with rounded tannins and moderate acidity, this is one for easy and early drinking. Incredibly, the tech sheet shows that this spent 12 months in 50% new oak, but it ceratinly does not taste like it. If so, that's incredible pairing work with the cooper!
Drink: 2021-24
87 / QPR
Château Quincarnon 2019 Graves Rouge 14% $16
With 60% Merlot accompanied by 40% Cabernet Sauvignon (with an average vine age of 35 years), this smells surprisingly Cabernet dominated. There's blackberry, bramble, forest floor and even a hint of soot - despite the fact the wine saw no oak. Juicy at the core with supple fruitiness, this has pleasantly rounded tannins and perky acidity. This would be a terrific wine by the glass in a casual bistro!
Drink: 2021-24
87
Château Magneau 2019 Graves Rouge 12.5% $24
Foward in aromas and flavor-filled, this brooding red has a touch of autumnal aromatics between its crushed leaves and smoky scents. Tasting of baked berries with savory spice, the palate is dense in fruit flavor and lifted with good, underlying acidity while the smooth tannins cruise on for the ride. This is a blend of 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc.
Drink: 2021-24
86
Château Lassalle 2019 Graves Rouge 14% $25
An equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this robust, generously-fruited and nicely concentrated blend has swagger. There is a profusion of forest berries on the palate with sultry forest floor and peat undertones. Touches of roasted coffee bean and mocha add complexity. A good pairing for hearty dishes, especially off the grill, despite the fact this has well-moderated tannins and even keel acidity.
Drink: 2021-24
85
Château de l'Hospital 2019 Graves Rouge 14.5% $28
Certified organic, Château de l'Hospital is composed of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% each of Petit Verdot and Malbec that is stainless steel fermented then barrel-aged, 30% in new oak, for 12 months. This one is flamboyantly ripe with just-noticeable high alcohol and flat acidity. Drying plums and figgy fruit deliver a straightforward fruit palate that turns dry and sticky on the modest finish.
Drink: 2021-24
85
Château Tourteau Chollet 2019 Graves Rouge 13.5% $24
Smelling of briar patch and fireplace embers, there is also a surprising top note - especially given this warm vintage - of green bell pepper and asparagus in this blend of 45% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon followed by 10% of Petit Verdot. The body is boldly fruited and the tannins are rounded. There is good acidic support, too. Still, on the rather short finish, the taste is more of string beans than black fruits as one would expect. This is a bit rustic in flavor though the palate structure is nicely handled.
Drink: 2021-24
85
Vieux Château Gaubert 2019 Graves Rouge 13% $32
This is a full-bodied, bold and textural red with grainy and broad tannins. While it tastes pleasantly mature, that is an odd taste for a 2019, which should be bright and fresh. The aromas are deeply toasty (40% new French oak), the fruit - showing oodles of plums - tastes cooked and even prune-y. This will find friends but its freshness factor is lacking and suggests this should be enjoyed soon.
Drink: 2021-23