Revisiting Montecucco

It's been several years since I did a broad tasting and presentation of Montecucco wines on behalf of the Conosorzio, so I was keen to have the chance to taste some wines currently in the US market.  

Located in southern Tuscany between the Montalcino and Scansano reigons, Montecucco sits near the Mediterranean. So, it is fairly warm even in its higher vineyards. Plantings stretch from about 150 to 400 meters / 500 to 1300 feet. The northern vineyards have more clay than the stonier, southern vineyards. These variations mean the rather terroir-transparent Sangiovese performs very differently based on where it is grown. Sangiovese doesn't like too much heat or too much stress from overly poor soils. Moreover, a combination of warmth and poor soils can be rather tricky.

Two things struck me in this tasting. On the one hand, I found it worrying that these current releases taste so mature. On the other, if one is looking for a mature wine without having to age it, wines like the Scarafone bottling deliver very nicely. I do think, however, that these are very careful hand-sells.

88
Scarafone 2016 Montecucco Rosso 14.5%
Showing an orange halo on its brick red core, this Sangiovese accented with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon smells pleasantly mature. Savory notes of dry-aged meat, autumn leaves underfoot, dried rose petals and used tea leaves sing from the glass. The palate feel is delightfully integrated, too, with a smooth attack leading to a full, cuddly mid-palate framed by lightly grippy tannins and elegant, lacey acidity. The mature notes accompanied by moderate complexity and a swift finish suggest this is at its peak and ready to drink now.
Drink: 2021-22 

86
Podere Montale 2016 Montecucco Sangiovese 14%
Like the Scarafone, this wine shows an orange underglow. This pure Sangiovese, however, shows more freshness. Strawberry, pomegranate and rose petals rise delicately on the nose. Racy acidity - surprising for the rather high alcohol - frames the full-bodied palate. The big, grainy tannins lightly dry the fast finish. Ready to drink, this is a wine for the table.
Drink: 2021-23 

84
Maciarine 2015 Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva 15%
Orange-tinged and brick red, this wine's nose is very quiet. With air, fallen autumn leaves, crunchy earth and dried mulberries surface. The voluminous palate is laden with high alcohol. It is supported by high-strung, angular acidity and stolid, firm tannins. The dried red fruit flavors are tired and the evident balsamic strains reveal volatile acidity. Better to taste a younger vintage.
Drink: Now