The 2018 Releases of Cirq. & CHEV. Pinot Noir
The Cirq. and CHEV. are markedly ambitious wines, but they feel and taste rather forced.
91
Cirq. 2018 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 14.6% $150
This pretty much defines lush Pinot Noir. Silky tannins and integrated, supporting acidity work hard to wrestle the powerful body into shape. Some prickly, alcoholic heat comes through on the finish. Spiced red plums and mulberries dominate.
Drink: 2021-24
89
CHEV. 2018 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 14.4% $80
This Pinot Noir smells lightly oxidized and tastes thoroughly jammy. Bruised plums, spice drawer and old blueberry jam fill the intense palate. Lacking freshness and finesse, this is hard to appreciate as a "big red", much less a Pinot Noir. Its tannins are sweet and soft, but its acidity is prickly and harsh on the finish - even in the face of ample gylcerol. And finally, the finish dries up quickly.
Drink: 2021-23