Slovenian Sampler

It is always a pleasure to taste wines that are hard to come by in this country, especially when it's hard to get out of this country now. I tasted this line-up from Vitis Global last fall (and have been slow to get it posted), and there was much to like in this diverse array of styles provided by a wide array of grape varieties and producers.

Sparkling
89*
Vinarstvo Rebula 2015 Terra Vita Kras 12%
This is a classic method (bottle-fermented) sparkler that has an elegant, slightly lower, 4.5 bars of pressure. Incredibly, this Refosk sparkler spends five and a half years on its spent lees. Deep ruby, almost magenta in color, this wine's nose is unusual for a sparkling wine yet deeply intriguing. Blackcurrants, damp soil and a hint of lilac draw in the taster. The attack is dry and very nicely balanced with crisp bubbles accenting the back palate's tug of acidity. The finish is resolutely smooth with just the lightest nudge of tannic dryness resolving nicely against the vivid acidity. The mid-palate provides a nuanced level of fruit ripeness to even out the well-defined structural elements. This is a show-stopper that delivers aromatic complexity coupled with a sophisticated structure. Riveting!
Drink: 2021-23 

88
Zlati Gric NV Sparkling Wine Rosé Podravje 11.5%
Made from Blaufrankish, this is a bracing brut sparkler between its red currant-like acidity and crisp bubbles. The nose is demure, with light spring flower notes accompanied by strawberry pit and pomegranate. The moderate body is nicely balanced, but the vaguely minerally finish is markedly swift and leaves a light note of white chocolate on the pleasantly dry palate.  
Drink: 2021-22 

87
Penina Istenic NV Desirée Sparkling Wine Sec Posavje 12%
This exotically aromatic and off-dry blend of 50% Chardonnay, 35% Rumeni Plavec and 15% Welsh Riesling is a head-turner. The bouquet is a twirl of lychee, peach pit and tree blossoms. Its delicate, light-bodied palate adds elements of green tea and hibiscus. The residual sugar is well-balanced by scintillating, mouth-watering acidity and fine, persistent and gently crunchy bubbles. Thanks to the well-calibrated balance, this wine works well as an apéritif, a brunch tipple or an accompaniment to fruit tarts.
Drink: Through 2021 

86
Penina Istenic NV Desirée Red Sparkling Wine Doux Posavje 12% 
Stunningly pretty in its deep strawberry color as it pours into the glass, this wine also shows very fine bubbles. These glide gently and evenly across the palate, showing the most gentle pétillance. It is an impressive handling of the méthode classique to make such discreet bubbles. The distinctly clean, though candied, fruit flavors taste of strawberry and watermelon Jolly Rancher. The distinct sweetness is well balanced by mouthwatering acidity. The overall effect of this half-half blend of Pinot Noir and Blaufränkisch is light and airy on the palate, and the sweetness cleans up nicely on the finish. This Doux sparkler has very good drinkability.
Drink: Now

Whites
91
Hisa Joannes Protner 2017 Renski Rizling Podravje 13%
Deep yellow in color and very firm and closed on Day 1, the wine - with the bottle less one glass - was much more expressive on Day 2. On Day 1, the wine showed vague Riesling aromatics and an awkward earthiness. On Day 2, the wine had shed its shroud and opened up dynamically. In fact, it became one of those wines that seems a shame to drink because it smells so good. Scents of ripe yellow pear, bay leaf and flashes of ginger dynamise the nose. The medium-bodied palate shows excellent tension between the moderately viscous, palate-coating dynamic and the minerally, salivating tension on the back palate. White field flowers and peach flesh come through and linger on the medium finish. There is an excellent intensity. This drinks beautifully now (with vigorous aeration) and should hold nicely for several more years.
Drink: 2021-22 

90
Druzovic SiSi 2018 Muskat Rumeni (Dry) Stajerska 12.5%
Pale straw with green reflections and tiny, tiny bubbles, this vividly youthful white has a zingy aromatic personality. Light and vivavious on the attack, this wine carries itself with ease. The robust but savory - rather than fruit-driven - aromatics, are deeply compelling. There are elements of yellow daffodils, beeswax and peach peel. Tangy and lifting on the palate, too, this is delightful as an aperitif or a wine accompanying a saline-driven seafood dish. It is lithe and lean and a hint herbal. It is clean and wholesome in flavor, and its finish extends beyond the slightly clipping, drying tannins on the finish.
Drink: 2021-23 

88
Kristalvin Alan Kristancic Selection 2017 Chardonnay Brda 12%
Fermented and aged in 225-liter oak barrels for 12 months and bottle unfiltered, this is a structurally elegant Chardonnay with reserved fruit aromas that benefit from substantial aeration. The smooth but almost dainty attack with very moderate body and alcohol is smartly supported by crisp acidity. Even as the bouquet develops going into the second day, the fruit remains demure while oak and lees-aging influences take center stage. Yellow plum and donut peach are always there, but the toasted oats and brioche form the base of the wine's flavors. The lightly creamy but modest finish and deep yellow color suggest this wine is ready to drink.
Drink: 2021-22  

88
Kristalvin Alan Kristancic Selection 2018 Sauvignonasse Stajerska 13.5%
Presenting an unusually reserved, even savory nose, this is more subtle than I would expect for Sauvignonasse. However, the attack is more broad than lifted and vertical. The palate lends viscosity with sage and fennel a touch of vinegar mother. Somewhat warm finish in alcohol with moderate length and average concentration, the flavors of yellow tomato and pomello rind are fun nonetheless.
Drink: 2021-22 

Reds
92
Constantini 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Eminent Brda 14%
Still looking youthful with only a minor streak of brick color, this beautifully-evolved wine smells of smashed red fruits, seared steak, lit fireplace and menthol. The medium-bodied palate shows lightly sticky but well-knit tannins and seamless acidity. From scent to structure, this is Cabernet Sauvignon through and through. Polished and moreish as it is still juicy and lively, this is aging well and has a good way yet to go. "Eminent" for certain.
Drink: 2021-24

88
Constantini 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Brda 12.5%
Showing a pretty cranberry color with a light crimson edge, this wine's bouquet is compelling. It smells of cedar, black currants and black plums. Its flavors sit at the exciting, razor-sharp edge of fresh fruit and development. Very medium in body, its streamlined structure makes it a graceful performer at the table. Racy acidity and finely-knit tannins give this wine good approachability while the broad profile of flavors offers ample pairing possibilities. Still, it is ready to drink and shouldn't be cellared too much longer.
Drink: 2021-22 

87
Meum Winery 2017 Pinot Noir Stajerska 13%
A pale and perky red, this wine's nose is discreet, showing the only the mildest hints of dried flowers and red fruits. Very elegant and medium-bodied, the vivacious acidity dominates the attack, but gripping tannins take over the finish. Definitely a food wine, it's worth taking the time to decant this. With air, rosehips, strawberries and minerally tones come to the fore.
Drink: 2021-22

84
Zlati Gric 2015 Pinot Noir Stajerska 14%
A crimson rim surrounds a pale ruby core and the moderately fruit-driven nose similarly shows aging tones of fallen autumn leaves. The strong, nostril-penetrating note of Band-Aid lessens with air, but doesn't go away entirely. Smashed cranberry and mulberry dominate the palate, where leathery, moisture-wicking tannins and medium acidity try to focus the noticeably high alcohol. Short and dry on the finish, this seems past its best days.
Drink: Now