Christy Canterbury MW

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Not My First Rodeo with Tenuta Sant'Antonio Wines

I have tasted an assortment of wines within the Tenuta Sant'Antonio range several times. I'm disappointed to say that, overall, these were rather lackluster. That's not to say that they aren't drinkable or pleasant enough. They mostly are. They are simply lacking in energy.

The vintage is not the culprit as each of the four wines comes from its own growing season. The style - or at least the vinification and aging - is different for each wine, too. Moreover, I tasted these wines several months after they arrived at my door, so shipping was not the offender.

I could point out that in the case of the 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli that the wine would have been better off selling through to the market earlier. But with regard to the Valpolicella Ripasso and the Valpolicella Nanfrè, the vintages are fresh. My reflections on my previous tasting of the 2015 Selezione Antonio Castagnedi are just below the note on the same wine tasted today. Still, each wine has its positive points. If any is in your buying sight, it's worth looking into its vintage-specific reviews. Saluti!

90
Tenuta Sant'Antonio 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Selezione Antonio Castagnedi 15% $47
A scintillatingly rich Amarone (aren't they all, really), this bold, broad wine bears a nice balance of freshness and concentration on its full-bodied palate. Impressively spicy on the attack, it also is packed with black plums and black cherries. Its acidity offers modest lift and its sculpted tannins are impressively tame for Amarone. The modestly complex flavors are holding well, but there is a slight dullness of overripe flavors on the medium finish that suggests that this may not much evolve further to benefit. (Note: I have shortened the drinking window from my original projection. See below.)
Drink: 2020-23

I reviewed the 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Selezione Antonio Castagnedi 18 months ago and scored it a 91. While my score has hardly budged, re-reading that review, I have to admit that the wine evolved more quickly than I expected. Mind you, it's perfectly enjoyable, but I thought it would have had a longer aging arc. Moreover, there is nothing in the wine to suggest that it is in an awkward stage, and I tasted two bottles. 

87
Tenuta Sant'Antonio 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli 16% $60
Most interestingly, when this is freshly opened, this wine's initial tinges of age aren't doing it any favors as it unfurls in the glass. At first spicy thanks to its swathes of oak, the wine turns autumnal and increasingly bitter over a few hours. (I wouldn't decant this or leave it unfinished for another time.) The dark, sultry fruits turn to dried black currants and prunes. Notes of rusty iron develop in the glass, too. Overall a hedonistic wine for certain (careful - it's 16% abv), I nonetheless do appreciate its refined structure: the tannins are smoothly grained and the sassy acidity is refreshing.
Drink: 2020-21 

87
Tenuta Sant'Antonio 2017 Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 14% $22
Lush and smooth, this deeply fruit-driven wine smells of cobbler-esque blueberries and mulberries. On the palate this wine takes a savory turn, bringing on a full range of fall-winter landscape aromas. While unfortunately a bit flat in acidic refreshment, this wine overall has good structural bones. The longer it is open, the more enticing it smells, even if it doesn't become more complex. With its straightforward flavor character, I wish that it were priced under $20. It's a decent value for its style. If this doesn't make your cup of tea, it's worth checking a different vintage of the same wine.
Drink: 2020-23

 84
Tenuta Sant'Antonio 2018 Valpolicella Nanfrè 12.5% $15
This youthful wine's nose is bright and lifted. Its an unusual juxtaposition of very ripe and just-ripe fruits that spans between dried figs and tangy, red currants and cranberries. There's also a sinus-opening shot of evergreen that offers fresh aromas while helping to deliver a Christmas candle-like aroma. The palate-defining acidity is tart and perky, bordering on tight. The medium body barely supports its dominance, especially given the soft, caressing tannins. Still, its vigorous lift makes this a good wine for sopressata or Roman-style pizza.
Drink: 2020-21