A Peek into the 2015 Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Sagrantinos

I remember trying my first Sagrantinos back in the very early aughts, while working in a Manhattan wine store that sold exclusively Italian wines. Arnaldo Caprai was a leader then, not only for Sagrantino, but also for indigenous Italian grape varieties. Back then - as recent as it was - Italy was transfixed with showing that it could make great wines from international grapes, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. However, Arnaldo Caprai and his son Marco, who has been carrying the torch since 1988, were already waving the Sagrantino flag.

The wines have evolved with time, taste and climate change. These wines are more approachable than I recall those early aughts wines to be, even though those Caprai wines were overall highly accessible vis-à-vis the otherwise fiercely grippy Sagrantino situation. 

Today, it is easy that taste that these two wines will provide pleasure now and in years far beyond. Moreover, their age-worthiness-to-price ratio is downright striking considering the price of peer-worthy Piedmontese and Tuscan gems that could age as long. 

92
Arnaldo Caprai 2015 Montefalco Sagrantino 25 Anni 15% $90
This is an impressively sleek and succulent, thoroughbred Sagrantino. Even without decanting, it's enjoyable. That may sound odd, but given the frequent ferocity of youthful Sagrantino, this is a grand feature sported by this muscular wine. How gracious it is that it doesn't seek to strip the palate of every last suspicion of moisture! The broad, flavor-filled mid-palate is a tumult of forest berry flavor accented by licorice. The concentration is enticing without being overpowering, and the minerally, focused finish is not shy. The broad tannins are well-proportioned to the high-alcohol palate, and the lightly tart acidity gives this wine a very clear Italian heritage. Structurally impactful and oversized in flavor, classiness reigns. 
Drink: 2020-28 

90
Arnaldo Caprai 2015 Montefalco Sagrantino Collepiano 15% $40
Corpulent with a swagger of generous, if well-buttressed, alcohol this is a hefty glass of wine. Nonetheless, it manages respectable balance while showing considerable flair. The chunky mid-palate and robust forest fruit core greatly benefit from vigorous splash decanting to reveal the flavors of licorice, açai and pretzel bread skin. The rambunctious tannins cut as much into the palate as into any hearty foods that it might accompany. At this youthful stage, it could use a glass of water as a refreshing pairing, too. The slightly bitter, highly Italianate acidity accents the gusto of this wine while at the same time infusing it with liveliness. Though four years old, this wine demands an extraordinary energy of the taster, but gives it back in vigor and pure, energy-laced excitement.
Drink: 2021-25