Azienda Vitivinicola Tonnino: A Surprise Encounter

It's not often that I see a wine bearing the USDA Organic symbol. This is even more true of an imported wine. So, I was especially curious to taste these wines. It turns out that they sit squarely in the "natural" spectrum, as I expected.

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Tonnino 2017 Grillo Sicilia 12.5% $19
I chilled this Grillo despite thogh knowing it would be an orange wine style. When I first opened the bottle, I was offended by just sniffing its zany funk. I put the bottle back in the fridge without a cork and came back to it five hours later. Even in my 42 degree fridge, just opening the bottle helped it evolve. (Thank goodness.) Its evolution, however, was astonishing.  

After tasting it, I decided to let the wine sit for about 45 minutes to warm up. And, as Robert Frost might have said about two roads in the woods, that made all of the difference. This is definitely a wine to serve cool, à la cellar temperature, not cold. 

Once warmer, the wine began to taste of nectarine peels and grated cinnamon. Some bruised apples or apple cider - so classic of so many orange wines - showed up as well. The finish was feistily grippy. However, it was still very drinkable once the wine had warmed up. My last pour even displayed an attractive hazelnut tone.  

As long as this wine is stored in good condition, it should show well in its first two to three years. It should even convert some non-natural wine fans in the process, especially when drunk at a warmer temperature!

85
Tonnino 2018 Nero d'Avola 13.5% $15
This husky wine needs time to open up and blow off some of its volatile, balsamic aromas. An hour after I opened the bottle, it began to offer an inviting, red cherry cobbler aroma accompanied by undertones of crusty, dry earth. The palate is soft in tannins but pungent in biting, even searingly drying, acidity. It's an unusual mouthfeel. Pleasant in a pinch, this seems a bit tired and awkward overall. It's definitely one to drink early, within the next year. Two bottles sampled.