Trentodoc bubbly is on a mission to have its metodo classico wines perceived as the best in Italy. The tip-top of this category of wines is crisp and bitingly dry – in an appealing way. They are also layered with flavor.
These wines are pricier than the vast majority of Prosecco for good reason: it takes longer to make and age the wines prior to release. In many ways, they fall in line with the sparkling wines of Franciacorta, yet their character tends to be more pungent in fruit and effusive in big bubbles.
Borgo dei Posseri 2012 Tananai Brut
An equally split combo of Pinot Nero and Chardonnay from 600-meter high vineyards, this bracing bubbly is laced with a red lingonberry and red currant nose that dives straight into a tart attack (only 6 grams per liter of residual sugar). Zippy and lime zesty through the moderate finish, this personality-driven bubbly is made for the table, primarily because its racy structure has some bite. The Pinot Nero dominates the flavors but the Chardonnay dominates the structure. The rather aggressive bubbles on the palate suggest this wine might need some quiet time to chill out, and it has the concentration to hold on while the wine does so.
Altemasi 2010 Blanc de Blanc Brut
This full-on Chardonnay is a pleasure-giver. Its easy-going, red and green apple peel tones are straightforward and accompanied by only the lightest touches of dried straw and yeast packets. (This elegance is clearly derived in part from the wine’s 48 months on its yeast lees!) The palate is a bit hard and short – surely thanks to the meager 6 grams per liter of residual sugar, but the wine is clean and well-made while showing a pleasant bit of toastiness. Ready, willing and able, this is ready to sip up.
Letrari 2013 Talento Brut
Disgorged in May 2016, this wine is elegant and reserved on the nose with more straw and hazelnut skin tones than fruit-driven ones. There are some muddled apples in the fruit spectrum, but other than that, this wine is mostly about the base notes of evolution. Interestingly, it’s much more evolved than the Altemasi 2010. The medium body, mild but balancing acidity and noticeably fine bubbles give this sparkler impressive finesse. There’s a bit of a finish, too. It’s so well balanced as to allow it to work alone or with an array of lighter foods. It’s so airy that I never would have guessed it has 15% Pinot Nero blended into its Chardonnay core.
Drink: 2017- 19
Rotari 2013 Blanc de Blanc Brut
This pure Chardonnay will be an easy pleaser in most crowds. It is very ripe, displaying notes of bruised apple and über-ripe peach along with a saccharine-esque sweetness. Moreover, there’s a wee bit of oak (less than 2%) that polishes off this wine’s edges. Its finish has some length, though that is mostly due those 11.5 grams of residual sugar. It’s a rather monotone wine, but again, if its price is reasonable, it will have its followers.
Drink: Through mid-2018
Maso Martis 2008 Riserva Brut
Disgorged in 2016, this wine is so dark yellow in color that it looks like butter. The nose presents a pleasant contrast with floral tones encroaching the buttered toast ones. In fact, it’s a downright, remarkable contrast of bright apple fruit mixing with incredibly evolved nutty tones. The palate shows a lightly (nut) pithy and tannic, grainy finish that exacerbates the aggressively frothy and drying bubbles on the medium finish. This could use some harmony yet is rather evolved. It’s time to drink up as waiting won’t improve this combo of 70% stainless steel Pinot Noir and 30% barrique-focused Chardonnay.
Drink: Through 2018
Ferrari NV Rose Brut Maximum
This 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay disgorged in 2016 sports a coopery pink tone. Without the bubbles, I can imagine mistaking it for some top-shelf roses hailing from southern France. Much like the other rosés in this flight, the flavor emphasis is not on fruit but rather earthy tones (dried mushrooms and mulch). Nonetheless, in comparison this wine is far more focused on the savory, minerally, less fruity characters. There’s enough structure here to allow this to keep fairly well in bottle, but I’d serve this up and save my vintage Ferrari wines for years to come. This written, I’ll note that this is one of the best Ferrari Rosés I have tasted. It’s a gastronomic wine thanks to its mealy and grainy tones and its decidedly dry finish.
Revi 2013 Rose Brut
Disgorged in 2017, this wine has a perky and deep pink color with minor salmon notes. Its nose is earthy and reserved, but its palate is rather broad and gives it plenty of weight and flavor depth to substitute for fruit in a rather young metodo classico. There is nothing lacking here, even if the 2013 might suggest slightly more fruit-driven tones. This Brut does a fine job of dancing on the line of sip-alone/sip-accompanied. Its dry, textured finish is well-placed in cleaning up the palate and extending the flavors into a moderate finish. This is 80% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay.
Rotaliana 2017 Redor Brut Sboccatura
Biting on the attack, this thoroughly Chardonnay wine has a definitively brioche-y and toasted hazelnut attack. There are dried apples and apricots on the straightforward mid-palate. Raspily dry on the finish with tart acidity, this is a wine destined for the table. Despite the good concentration as the flavors are rather one note and the palate is rather harsh, this is a wine to drink up as there is no evidence it might improve with time.