Château Séraphine & Clos Cantenac: An Unusual 2021 En Primeurs...In Sicily

I've had the privilege to taste the last three vintages of Château Séraphine and Clos Cantenac away from Bordeaux. The pandemic had me stuck at my Brooklyn desk for the 2019 and 2020 vintages, and I was working in Sicily during 2021 En Primeurs week. Luckily, the line-up of Château Séraphine and Clos Cantenac were waiting for me upon my arrival in Marsala. 

To date, these are the only 2021s from Bordeaux that I have tasted. From all I read now and all that I heard about during the growing season, 2021 is a vintage of the vigneron and vigneronne. It may be interesting to debate the climatic mayhem, but the stuff in the bottle is what matters most.

The results I tasted from both Clos Cantenac and Château Séraphine are downright delicious. Distinctly different from the two previous vintages, the reds are slightly more approachable at this stage than their predecessors, and they have a decisively bordelais flair. The rosés and white crackle with freshness and structure. All made in very small quantities, these are worth seeking out.

Reds
94
Clos Cantenac 2021 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
Smartly put together, this is a wholesome, well-balanced Saint-Émilion that has a lively juiciness overlaid with a soft oak impression. It tastes of sweet raspberries and strawberries laced with baking spices and drizzled with balsamic. The intense finish works in aromas of warm espresso grinds and cocoa powder. After the plush and plump attack, bold but sophisticated tannins set in on the palate and lingering finish. There is a compelling call-and-response nature that swirls between the structural elements. This has the poise to age well through at least the mid-term between its vaguely grippy structure and refreshing, well-placed acidity, yet its lush fruit also gives it immediate drinkability.

93
Château Séraphine 2021 Pomerol
Bold and swashbuckling, this shows like the full-throttle Pomerol that it usually is at this stage. An initial meatiness tinged with tobacco leaf on the nose transforms into dark chocolate and vanilla pod as the wine lingers in the glass. The palate's concentrated, pure fruit intensity vacillates between decadence and finesse. The flavors charm easily with reverberating notes of black plums, cassis, Christmas spice and a hint of fireplace smoke. The lifting acidity leads the structure with the supple tannins gently settling into the solid finish.

93
Petit Cantenac 2021 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
The label may distinguish this as "Petit" to the grand vin of Clos Cantenac, but it is a noble Saint-Émilion Grand Cru in its own right. It is harmonious and engaging with layers of pure and concentrated fruit laced with earthy terroir nuances. The expansive array of fruit generosity includes flavors of bold raspberries, gentle black cherries and black plum skin highlighted by sweet spice, light toastiness and subtle evergreen lift. Caressing tannins and integrated acidity give this a delightful drinkability while extending the flavors into a notably long finish.

Rosés
92
Elégance du Clos Cantenac 2021 Bordeaux Rosé
Though a pale, ballet slipper pink in color, this wine is a flavor dynamo. Sweet peach core, yellow apple, Comice pear and guava swirl together in an exotic blend. The body is generous and mouthfilling, with the ample, upfront fruit followed by a mineral-tinged savoriness and vibrantly dry finish. The sculpted vinosity wraps the palate in a silky texture before the wine finishes with buoyant lift. This is utterly delightful on its own or at the table. The juxtaposition of elegance with generous flavor is truly irresistible.

 88
L'Exubérance Rosé du Clos Cantenac 2021 Bordeaux Rosé
Pale but gleaming with a light, peachy-pink color, this rosé's exuberance is found in the finesse and precision of fruit flavors rather than in overt fruit concentration. It has a stylishness that will offer broad appeal. The delicate, well-knit flavors of strawberry water tinged with wet rock minerality are compelling. The light body mingles with rounded acidity to deliver a juicy, moreish finish.

White
89
L'Exubérance Blanc du Clos Cantenac 2021 Bordeaux Blanc
Light and zesty with scents of white grapefruit, cracked white peppercorn and dried green lentils, this is a reserved, pithy white. Straw and star fruit notes come through on the taut and invigorating palate. Flecked with minerally nuance, this polished wine will pair well with subtle omakase offerings, delicate ceviches and springtime's white asparagus. This is the second vintage of the L'Exubérance Blanc.