Chile's Protective Agricultural Heritage & Some Good Wines to Fill Your Glass Today

Apparently, a French man in the early 1800s became interested in Chilean flora, fauna and geology. Claude Gay became the effective patron saint of local, Chilean plants. 

Thanks to Claude, anytime you travel to Chile, it is made abundantly clear in all government proclamations that you cannot bring in any plants, fruits or vegetables. A friend inadvertently crossed customs with an apple in his pocket (I believe he was traveling from Taiwan, though he lives in London) about 15 years ago and was firmly reprimanded, despite eating the same apple in the presence of immigration officers. 

However, it is not only at the borders that Chile takes environmental concerns seriously. Granted, every winery has its own policy, and different wines' growing and production methods allow for less or more precise protocols. In the spirit of getting things "right", here is a smattering of Chilean reds currently working on their sustainability from multiple viewpoints.

92
Viñedos Emiliana 2018 COYAM Los Robles Estate Colchagua 14% $35
This is a delightful hodge-podge of 42% Syrah, 39% Carmenère, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Garnacha, 3% Malbec, 3% Carignan, 1% Tempranillo and 1% Mourvèdre. Broodingly dark in its black raspberry color, this wine has an exotic nose. Impossible to place between its provenance and - especially - its super exotic blend, this is just REALLY good red wine. Its easy-going palate is marked with expertise, even if its finish is rather medium. There also is a light, leafy-green aromatic character that gives a suggestive nod to Chile as a source of origin. Finely grainy tannins, joyful juiciness and integrated acidity give this gluggability in addition to its complexity. 
Drink: 2021-24 

89
Koyle 2019 Carmenère Gran Reserva Alto Colchagua 14% $17
A compelling blend of 85% Carmenère, 10% Tempranillo and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine is vivid thanks to its guttural sensibility. Smelling of a meat-ageing locker and aloe vera, this somewhat edgy wine delivers aromatics far more evolved than the usual two-year-old red, especially with its slightly rustic undertones. The mid-palate is gentle and caressing, with very mild but supporting acidity and lightly enveloping tannins. Ready to drink and thoroughly enjoyable with its beef jerky tones amplifying the final savory nuances.
Drink: 2021-23 

88
Concha y Toro 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva Ribera del Tinguiririca Marchigue 13.5% $17
Highly fragrant, this Cabernet Sauvignon smells of black currant, eucalyptus and aloe. Very fruit-driven on the nose, the palate is similar, yet shows a nicely contrasting, chocolate-driven note. Pleasant, forward and easy, this is ready to drink yet has a nicely earthy finish and very good balance. This is an incredible value and worth the trade up for just $5-7 more versus other Cabernets clocking in at $10. The mulberry tones on the finish are highly enticing.
Drink: 2021-23 

88
Viña Maquis 2018 Cabernet Franc Gran Reserva Colchagua 14% $24
A bit challenging in the verbose, leafy-green tones on the nose, the eucalyptus, mint and menthol dominate the aromas. This plus the fact that there isn't much fresh fruit-driven character makes it a challenging wine. The palate shows a leafy, underbrush tone, but despite this being a 2018, it doesn't show much fruit liveliness. To this point, there is a weightiness to the palate that is surely attributable to the 35% clay content in the soils here. Still, the wine is noticeably warm in alcohol and is a bit too mild in acidic lift while still managing to be rather charming. I wish it were sub-$20.
Drink: 2021-23

88
Viña Tarapaca 2018 Red Wine Blend Gran Reserva 14% $20
Made with organically-grown grapes composed of 31% Cabernet Franc, 26% Syrah, 22% Carmenère, 11% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is easy going and ready to enjoy.

Exotic on the nose with forward aromas of eucalyptus, mint and aged steak, this starts and finishes as a truly distinctive wine with its swarm of flavors. Alas, the palate turns out a bit simple with straightforward flavors and a fast finish. Still, this is a highly satisfying red with a hint of oak aging that surfaces via toast on the modest finish. 
Drink: 2021-23 

87
Viu Manent 2019 Malbec Gran Reserva Secreto de Viu Mament 13.5% $15
Smelling of mulberries, black raspberries and peat, this is a vibrant if bass-toned Malbec.  Juicy at the core, the bustling acidity gives good snap. The mild tannins show up on the moderate, black cherry finish. Enjoy in its youth. 
Drink: 2021-22