Ventisquero is Back (and Better Distributed)

I was pleased to see Ventisquero pop up a few weeks ago. It's been a while since I have seen this name. I used to buy some of the wines for the defunct Spice Market Atlanta when it first opened. The GREY Carménère was a favorite at the time, and I often lamented that the range wasn't more widely available in the US for the other restaurant lists that I was overseeing at Culinary Concepts by Jean-Georges. Over a decade later, it appears the wines are now widely available in the US. Check them out!

93
Ventisquero 2016 Vertice Apalta Vineyard Colchagua Valley 14.5% $35
This 51% Carménère and 49% Syrah blend is a collaboration of Ventisquero's winemaker Felipe Tosso and Australian tour-de-force winemaker John Duval.

The nose tells all. This is a bold and feisty one, and it is still appealingly fresh at four-year-old. It's enticing straight from the bottle, but it really benefits from a few hours of decanting. The vibrant, pure fruit core has nicely mingled with its hearty new oak aging (40% new for 22 months). It's singing with intensity now, and its fervent concentration, notable purity and lingering, balanced finish promise good longevity. Of special note are the remarkably discreet and gentle tannins, given the grape varieties. The balanced acidity gracefully lifts the palate and extends the deep mass of flavors into a lingering finish with whispy touches of cocoa powder. This is a gossamer wine with incredible finesse and depth. The compelling and long finish tastes of tobacco leaf.
Drink: 2020-28 

91
Ventisquero 2017 Carménère Trinidad Vineyard Single Block GREY Maipo Valley 13.5% $24
This varietal wine was sourced from Block N° 5 in the La Trinidad Vineyard. 

Elegant from attack to medium finish, this is a clean, delineated and quintessential Carménère. After its characteristic Carménère whiff of soy, it changes gear to taste of blackberries and sloe on the palate. Still, there is an underlying spicy savoriness that keeps the Carménère personality focused. The tannins are smoothly knit, showing a most gentle tug on the back palate, and the suavely integrated acidity effortlessly provides refreshment. The 18 months of aging in French oak (34% new) tastes carefully integrated.
Drink: 2020-24 

90
Ventisquero 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Trinidad Vineyard Single Block GREY Maipo Valley 13.5% $24
This pure Cabernet Sauvignon hails from La Trinidad Vineyard's Block N° 38. 

This is a lithe and perky Cabernet Sauvignon with mouthwatering freshness. The chiseled acidity guides the palate feel at the beginning, but then the tannins turn a bit papery and lead to a somewhat drying finish. Serving this at the table will help take care of that! Its beguiling bouquet of dried cranberries, black plum skin, black currants and rose petals is very come-hither. Drinking well now, the medium finish of damp tobacco and old cedar suggests this is coming into its prime.
Drink: 2020-23 

89
Ventisquero 2016 Pinot Noir Herú Casablanca Valley 13.5% $40
Hailing from Block 34 of the Tapihue Vineyard, these vines grow in granitic clay soil. 

Showing the barest hints of amber at the rim, this wine's aromas are beyond their youthful bloom, already turning tertiary. It is a very Pinot-y wine with fallen autumn leaves, drying mulberries, tobacco and cherry skin. Its somewhat grippy, leathery tannins work in harmony with its creamy, mouthcoating texture. The moderate concentration suggests that it's ready to drink, and it's doing so very nicely now. There's a pleasant earthiness on the moderate finish.
Drink: 2020-21