Crushingly Good: Lilliano Chianti Classico
The Lilliano Chianti Classico wines are crushingly good in two senses: they are so delicious that they are drinkably crushable, and they give so much value-for-money that they are crushingly good values. This applies to all three DOCG levels: Chianti Classico, Riserva and Gran Selezione. Everyone likes a good value year-round, and everyone particularly appreciates one after the holiday season. Here are my notes on the wines most recently released in the US.
87
Lilliano 2016 Chianti Classico $21
Composed of Sangiovese with 5% Canaiolo, this supple, savory and generously fruit-filled wine tastes of black plum skin, red and black cherries and damp iron. Tugging, visceral tannins and zippy acidity give this wine a delightful liveliness. The focus here is on fruit and its terroir translation thanks to exclusive use of cement and stainless steel. This wine will pair with almost any occasion!
90
Lilliano 2015 Chianti Classico Riserva $32
Nothing but Sangiovese, this is a classy, bright and structured Riserva. Its minerally intensity is highlighted by sandy and leather tannins that frame the supple, fruited and black cherry flavored mid-palate. The lingering, woodsy finish and robust but balance core suggest this wine has time on its side.
92
Lilliano 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione $37
This wine smells very Italian while feeling very American in structure. That's to say that it smells classically of tangy red cherries and mulberries accented by toasted spices and underbrush while its mouthfeel is boldly ample with rounded tannins (surprising for Sangiovese) and integrated acidity. No doubt the warmth of the 2015 vintage contributed to this unusual density and intensity. This will benefit from the patina of time.