Christy Canterbury MW

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In Honor of Chardonnay Day, Some Wines from One of My Favorite Chardonnay Places: Chablis

I often tease my winemaker friends in Burgundy’s Côte d’or that my favorite Chardonnay is Blanc de Blancs Champagne. I get a pass on that, though sometimes with a hesitant, sideways glance or sometimes with an eye roll. What I don’t dare say is that I think the most unique expressions of Chardonnay come from Chablis…. This is precisely why Chablis is one of my favorite Chardonnay places on the planet.

94
Louis Michel 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 13.2%
Hailing from two parcels with a northern exposition, this is a firm Chablis, even though these are the last vines Guillaume harvests. Since I tasted this in Chablis in July 2019, this has evolved from a more citrusy expression to a more tropical one with passion fruit and guava. Smooth, vinous and gastronomic thanks to its a fine backbone of supporting acidity, this is a mouthful of deliciousness.
Drink: 2021-28 

91
Chanson 2018 Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre 13.5%
An oaked example of a Premier Cru, the nose on this one smells more "Côte d'Or-ian" as they say in Chablis, and that also aligns with the generous, pleasant breadth on the palate. However, the attack is vigorously Chablisienne. It is feisty with oyster shell flavors, salty and long in its finish and vividly refreshing in acidity. The wine takes advantage of time to develop in the glass and - as with any high quality white wine - shouldn't be served too cold. The juicy core tastes of toasted loaf, baked apple slices and hints of spice.
Drink: 2021-24 

87
Isabelle et Denis Pommier 2018 Chablis 12.5%
Fruit-forward on the nose, this wine smells of ripe yellow apples with a dash of cinnamon. The palate is an echo of the same. The palate is also very expansive for Chablis "tout court" rather than showing a more taut dimension. The flavors layer on donut peach and fresh herbs, but overall, this is a straightforward Chablis with a brief finish. I do appreciate the crisp uplift on the back palate. 
Drink: 2021-23 

87
La Chablisienne 2018 Petit Chablis Pas Si Petit 12%
Offering a delicate nose of yellow plum and oyster shell, this lifted, vivacious and tuggingly dry wine shows a pungent oyster shell note on its moderate-bodied palate. Classic, dignified and moreish, this is a good example of a Petit Chablis...that isn't so Petit!
Drink: 2021-23