Château Séraphine & Clos Cantenac: 2020 En Primeurs, Again, Chez Moi
Though missing Bordeaux yet again this spring, it has been a pleasure to taste these samples of the newly-born 2020 vintage. These wines were shipped directly from Bordeaux to New York and tasted just after arrival. While young wines are robust, any wine can be as unsettled as we often are after a long journey. I mention this because, chances are these very fine wines taste even better back in Bordeaux.
Once again, Martin Krajewski and his daughter, Charlotte, deliver focused, precise wines with immediate appeal yet evident ageability. Each offers ample delight, but as with the 2019s, I find an electrifying je ne sais quoi element with the Clos Cantenac.
95
Clos Cantenac 2020 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 14.5%
Inky black in appearance with purple inflections, this is a tour de force. The attack is still a bit four-square thanks to the marked concentration, but the robust fruit character also allows the wine to take on some attractive if significantly toasty, smoky oak character. (The barrels are 40% new and 60% second- and third-use.) The fruit profile explodes with blueberries, black currants and black cherries. Firm but balanced tannins mesh with fresh, revitalizing acidity to give this wine excellent spine and aging potential.
This pure Merlot receives ne plus ultra care with a Delta Oscilys destemmer welcoming the fruit into the winery. This is followed with berry-by-berry hand-sorting. Only 8,000 bottles were produced.
93
Château Séraphine 2020 Pomerol 14%
This pours into the glass with a dramatic, midnight black sheen flecked with violet. Sumptuous aromatics call out with vanilla bean and cassis. The cherubesque mid-palate is classic Merlot! Lusty with richness, the finessed tannins and buoyant acidity adeptly rein in the youthful flamboyance. Creamy, toasty oak notes slide into a deep and lingering finish. Though a touch heavy in weight, the balance is smart. Very soignée.
This jewel box of a property has 1.2 ha of Merlot and another hectare of Cabernet Franc planted in 2017. This 2020 is composed entirely of Merlot. Only 3,200 bottles were produced.
91
Petit Cantenac 2020 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 14%
This wine's robust nose issues strong mulberry, black plum and underbrush notes. Anise, toast and spice add complexity in the glass. The tugging, leathery and broad tannins show more feistiness than the grand vin, but an underlying elegance remains. Refreshing acidity chimes in to deliver pinpoint-like balance. Pure and mineral, this is a very smart wine. Just because there is "Petit" in the name doesn't mean this is necessarily for early drinking. It will age gracefully with ease.
A blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, this rugged youth needs just as much decanting as its siblings. Three, even four, hours in a carafe add substantial nuance. The largest in production of the trio, this is still tiny at only 16,000 bottles (1,333 cases).