Tall Black - Etna & the Wines of Alta Mora

Alta Mora means "tall black". That's exactly what the vineyards' home territory, Mount Etna, looks like. So, black is also the color of the soil. And, the soil on Mount Etna is very unusual. Walking through the soft, silky depths of the vineyards can give you the impression that you're about to sink right through the mountainside and into the inferno below. (I wish that I hadn’t worn light-colored shoes!)

In tasting these reds, it makes sense to release the Alta Mora reds on a later schedule, as they are in the US. The reds are tight, despite the boldness of their underlying flavor. Moreover, these wines are a completely different expression of their step-siblings, the Cusumano wines, so there seems to be little mystery that the wines are bottled with a different identity.  

90
Alta Mora 2018 Etna Bianco 12.5% $30
Elegant aromas of flowers, heather and hay grace this discreet Carricante's perfumes. As the wine warms up in the glass, an intriguing aloe note turns up. Though a very mid-weight wine, there is a tender, round character to the palate that almost entirely off-sets the wee hint of bitter almond on the back palate. The lingering, spicy finish caresses the palate with light touch of waxy glycerol.
Drink: 2020-24 

90
Alta Mora 2016 Etna Rosso 13.5% $30
It takes about three hours for the aromas of this Nerello Mascalese from 20-year-old vines to start to peel back from the initial notes of dusty earth and tart cherries. My initial impression was that it would be preferable to give it a few more years to really see what is nestled inside this rather backward wine. Alas, while there is a feisty fruit core, the flavors do seem rather straightforward. However, it is lovely to see the varietal fruit shine through here as there are no evident oak tones whatsoever. While this wine will hold nicely, I'm not convinced that it will give much more breadth of flavor. Still, in the hours that I spent with it, pretty floral tones surfaced with air and time. These high-toned notes are due in part to the vines' 600-800 meters of altitude. The fruit hails from four crus, or contrade: Verzella, Pietramarina, Feudo di Mezzo and Solicchiata. Grippy tannins cut the wine a bit short on the finish.
Drink: 2022-2024 

93
Alta Mora 2014 Guardiola Etna Rosso 14% $58
Showing some amber notes at the rim as well as dried fruits and used tea leaves on the nose, this Guardiola is showing very attractive evolution. There is an overwhelmingly earthy, savory flavor from start to finish, and any primary fruits have faded. There is a tantalizing, exotic spiciness that pervades the full-bodied palate. Sporting considerable alcohol yet only a whisper of glycerol, the palate has enough oomph to take the focus off the somewhat bracing and leathery tannins. The freshness on the back palate provides nice relief but is not over-bearing. The pretty perfume lingers with an underlying earthiness. This single contrada wine seems to be entering a prime drinking zone, as long as it is enjoyed with hearty fare
Drink: 2020-25