A Quintet of Classy Austrian Wines

92
Loimer NV Rosé Brut Sekt Reserve g.U. Niederösterreich 12%
This sekt stretches the imagination. A blend of Zweigelt, Pinot Noir and St. Laurent, it would be hard to place it in a blind tasting, even if its fruit purity, fine perlage and long finish clearly place it in a high quality region. This is also evidenced by its autolytic, biscuity aromas nodding to traditional method fermentation. Still, the tingly-fresh, crunchy red berry fruits indicate this is still a rather youthful wine. Luckily, Fred's sparklers have a date for their bottling as well as their disgorgement. The dry and taut, lingering finish ends with notes of dried wildflowers and almond paste. 
Drink: 2020-22 

Fred Loimer's precise and thoughtful work reflects in his wines, which radiate a minerally, terroir-driven honesty. Loimer - with his father - controlled about 37 acres / 15 hectares when Fred began, and his impressive quadrupling of holdings has not loosened his grip of the quality reins. Loimer's fruit is certified as organically grown by the Lacon Institut, and Fred himself is a founding member of Respekt, an organization that certifies biodynamic vineyard management.

91
Christoph Hoch NV Grüner Veltliner Hollenburger Österreich 11.5%
Biodynamically farmed and Demeter certified, this wine was a chameleon over the four days that I was tasting it. It began youthful and tight and mellowed out over time, but all the while it retained notable energy and structure between its chiseled acidity and pithy tannins. It also consistently displayed a saline, umami savoriness as the bottle was slowly drained. The predominant rainbow of citrusy tastes held strong across the four days while its accents of bay leaf and ginger trailed off over the first three days. By the third day, the wine seemed to have gained weight on the previously lightish-weight palate. From the first sip, I knew this had the flavor density to watch over the course of several days, and it was a pleasure to appreciate its evolution. Its best expressions were on the first through third days. 
Drink: 2020-24

In this wine, Christoph Hoch aims to make the best wine he can rather than a vintage expression from his five hectares near the Danube in Kremstal. Hence, this wine is a typically a blend of vintages. Some of the juice may have been skin macerated and some may have gone through malolactic fermentation, but all of it saw nothing but large and old oak casks.

90
Alzinger 2018 Riesling Federspiel Dürnstein Wachau 12.5%
Kerosene tin was the first aroma out of the glass on this youthful wine emanating pent-up vigor. This quickly evolved to crunchy Gala apple, lush apricot, zesty ginger and dried flowers. Like the Hoch Hollenburger, this evolved beautifully over three days, even if the directness of the ginger and floral notes lessened with air. The wine really sang on Day 2. This is unusually fruit-driven for Alzinger, surely due to the intense heat of the vintage. However, this ample fruit character married nicely with the wine's lightly mouthcoating glycerol. 
Drink: 2020-24 

The Alzingers were coopers until they began tending vines between the world wars. So, it is perhaps not surprising that they take a different angle when it comes to wood. Rather than oak, they prefer acacia, which gives the wines a distinctive, glossy smoothness on the palate and - frequently - intense floral top notes. This is not a Wachau address that seeks botrytis to dramatize aromatics or deepen color.

91
Neumeister 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Ried Klausen Vulkanland Steiermark 13%
This is a bit of a stinker coming right out of the bottle. It clearly is marked with a heavy struck flint note of reduction. However, it opens up beautifully. I tasted it over five hours, and the air and warmer temperatures both helped it blossom. It was a lovely academic and aesthetic experience. It's a savory yet vinous style of Sauvignon tasting of lees and flax seed while its reserved fruit hides in the background. Scintillatingly focused by a razor's edge of acidity to balance its dynamic, fuller-bodied palate, an enticing glimmer of bitterness cleans the palate on the lingering finish.
Drink: 2020-24 

Hailing from volcanic soils that clearly leave their imprints in the wines, Neumeister farms five prize vineyards (and some others), three of which host Sauvignon Blanc. Neumeister considers the Klausen vineyard a Premier, rather than Grand, Cru vineyard. Yet there is such a racy, elegant easiness here that it seems that it wouldn't be hard to take issue with that. 

92
Moric 2017 Blaufränkisch Burgenland 13%
Vinous, graceful and markedly pure, this Marasca cherry-scented wine tumbles into a mouthful of bramble and cherry preserves highlighted by lilacs. There is not even a whisper of oak here. The tannins are as soft as a baby's bottom. In fact, some of the white wines in this group seem to show more pinch than does this medium-bodied red. Rather, it is this wine's scintillating acidity that gives it structural vibrancy. Layered with nuance, this has much to reveal, but it will be hard to resist enjoying it now.
Drink: 2020-26 

A leading producer of Blaufränkisch, the Moric wines - somewhat counterintuitively - taste very differently in comparison to other top Blaufränkisch wines from Burgenland. Elegance and aromatic expression are fundamental here, whereas many other top wines showcase the powerful fruit core that the grape can also display.