Christy Canterbury MW

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Tenuta Regaleali Releases from the Tasca d'Almerita Family

91
Grillo Cavallo delle Fate Sicilia DOC 2018 $20
Grillo, whose name refers to the Sicilian word grilli - meaning pips, is a natural crossing of Catarratto and Zibbibo, or Moscato di Alessandria. Best known for its role in Marsala production - especially higher quality Marsala, it has only appeared in written records for about 130 years. While there's a bit grown in Puglia as well as Australia, it's a grape that has - like a proverbial Italian mamma's boy - stayed right at home.

Tasca d'Almerita harvests its Grillo grown at 1,980 feet (604 meters) during different periods of ripeness to create an exotic fruit profile supported by a spry backbone of acidity. The wine is fermented in stainless steel then aged four months on its lees. 

Already enticing at first sip, this opened beautifully over the course of two hours. The charismatic nose showcased a distinct saltiness with lemon peel freshness laced with pungent Key lime notes. The palate turns super savory with a leesy, Saltine Cracker flavor complemented by white grapefruit pith and yellow pear skin. The initially lightly ripply, viscous texture is countered by a vague grippiness on the long finish that radiates minerality. This might hold longer, but it's incredibly attractive right now.
Drink: 2020-21

91
Perricone Guarnaccio Sicilia DOC 2017 $20
I have been excited knowing this unusual red was waiting in my wine cellar to be tasted. (I thoroughly enjoyed tasting the 2016.) There's not a lot of Perricone out there, and there is even less of it bottled solo. A victim of phylloxera, it's remained mostly the mainstay grape of Ruby Marsala and the blending partner of varietally labeled Nero d'Avola. However, this bottling shows just how much we're missing when it's not showcased on its own.  

Guarnaccio is the Tenuta Regaleali winemakers' nickname for the grape. Vinified in stainless steel tanks, the wine is aged in second and third passage, 225-liter French oak barriques for twelve months.

This wine has a compelling, seemingly contradictory, restrained lushness. It starts with the attack: the wine glides smoothly onto the palate, making a broad, mouth-filling impression. The initial impact is something like, "Whoa! There's a lot of wine in this wine!" But just as the brain processes this, it turns refreshing - even mouthwatering. The result is incredible harmony. The palate is beautifully balanced, so much so that the suave, supple tannins go almost unnoticed. But, the fruit! There is a cornucopia of fleshy, ripe fruit. It's all black plums and boysenberries at their juiciest. The underlying earthy, minerally tones are accented by a vibratingly fresh, almost alpine-esque note of anise on the medium finish. This medium-bodied wine is super enticing from start to finish and should be a staple for casual dinners. It also sips well with a light chill.
Drink: 2020-23

90
Catarratto Antisa Sicilia DOC 2018 $22
Catarratto is one of the last varieties to be picked at Regaleali, harvested even after the reds have come in. Hence the name Antisa, meaning "hopeful anticipation". The variety, in its various biotypes, cover about one-third of the entire island's grape plantings. As such, it is Sicily's most-planted variety and Italy's second most-planted white grape. 

This varietal version was fermented in stainless steel tanks then allowed to age on the lees for four months. Malolactic fermentation was blocked to optimize freshness. It certainly worked!

Moderately aromatic, thanks in part to its elevation of 1,800-2,000 feet (549-610 meters), this wine is delightfully lively expression of Catarratto. It smells of pomelo and yellow plum, accented with sea salt. A savory edge enters on the palate with tinges of celery and straw. The palate presents a wholesome fullness accompanied by a tingly, lifting acidity. The deeply mineral, solid finale freshens the palate with tweaks of appealing bitterness.
Drink: 2020-21

90
Nero d'Avola Lamùri Sicilia DOC 2016 $20
Lamùri means love in the Sicilian dialect, and there’s plenty to love about Nero d'Avola. Actually, the variety masquerades behind the Nero d'Avola name. It was much better known for a very long time as Calabrese, the name under which it is registered in the national Italian grape registry. But, that was then. Now we know it as the black (Nero) grape from Avola (a town on the southeastern coast of Sicily), which is indeed where it is believed to be from. The story of the name Calabrese does not refer to mainland Calabria and is convoluted, and this wine is much too compelling to lose you now. I digress!

This is the workhorse red in the Regaleali stable - in terms of quantities, if nothing else. My previous experiences with it have me thinking of it as an easy-going pizza/mid-week/quaffing kind of wine. (As you'll read below, I think this vintage gives more than that.) Fermented in stainless steel tanks then aged in 225-liter French oak barriques of first, second and third passage for 12 months, this 2016 shows only a light touch of roasted coffee beans and black chocolate resulting from these vessels.  

This wine deserves time to open up; even just ten minutes in the glass really allows it to blossom. I've tasted Lamùri many times, and this is the best one that I have tasted so far. (In fact, it's head-turningly different from the 2015 that I tasted almost two years ago, as well as the others before.) The fruit density saturates the palate with black cherries, black plums, cedar box and unfinished leather. Power is balanced by poise. Though delightfully ripe with rather rounded tannins, acidity sings on the back palate, giving this satisfying, medium-plus bodied wine excellent drinkability. This wine's earthy, minerally finish lingers and, as the ample and polished fruit fades away, a delightful, sandy texture seems to plant itself into the palate.
Drink: 2020-23