A Trio of Alois Lageder White Wine Releases

Aiming to work in lockstep with nature, the Lageder family pursues environmental responsibility with the same fervor that it pursues great winemaking. They farm biodynamically and work with their contract growers to try to transform partner vineyards into organically or biodynamically managed ecocenters. This means little if the wines don't deliver, but they do with every vintage. Here are my notes from a trio of spring releases. 

90
Alois Lageder 2017 Manzoni Bianco Fórra 12.5% $31
A union of Riesling and Pinot Bianco, the almost 90-year-old Manzoni Bianco grape is named for its creator, Luigi Manzoni. Hailing from the sandy and chalky Paradeis vineyard located in a fórra, or gorge, in the Adige Valley, I found it surprising that this delightfully concentrated and layered wine comes from only 10-year-old vines. The secret may be the ten days of skin maceration. When enjoyed at cellar temperature - which I much preferred to refrigerator temperator, the wine unleashes candied ginger, dried mango and hay bale. 
Drink: 2020-23

90
Alois Lageder 2018 Pinot Grigio Porer 12.5% $26
Here, again - like with the Manzoni Bianco Fórra, there's some mastermind winemaking happening. This wine is fermented in large casks and stainless steel tanks with three different "seasonings" of juice treatment: classic vinification of the juice only, short skin contact with extended lees aging and whole cluster vinification. This is a polished Pinot Grigio with a highly appealing texture divided between silkiness and mealiness, despite showing only a 12.5% abv. Fruit aromas of comice pear and guava lead the way with a pleasantly earthy tone enhancing the medium finish. The lovely balance provided by the buoyant acidity make this a very quaffable wine but one that is best suited for a fine meal.
Drink: 2020-23 

88
Alois Lageder 2018 Müller Thurgau 12% $18
I'm rarely excited by Müller Thurgau, which made this one particularly head-turning. It was impressively aromatic for the typically somewhat subdued variety, showing aromas of sweet summer peaches, pluots and honeydew melon. Rather frisky between its fairly low, 12% alcohol, light body and vivid acidity, I could almost taste this with poached chicken over coucous with dried fruit. (It was almost lunch time!) This is made in conjuction with six vintner partners, and the fruit sees nothing but stainless steel and a quick lees maturation.
Drink: 2020-21