Grace, Harmony & Approachability from Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy
Barbaresco Martinenga 2014 14.5% $60
This is ballerina-like, elegant and deceitfully feathery-feeling for a 14.5% abv wine. To this point, its lighter-weight style might disappoint those hoping for a more bruising – more typically robust – style of young Barbaresco. However, those are far more commonplace – and more intellectual rather than enjoyable early on, so it is a true pleasure and relief to taste this beauty from Marchesi di Gresy. Though its vines face south and southwest, there is supremely well-balanced elegance in this medium-bodied core generously drenched in flavors of red currant, strawberry and damp tealeaves. This is ready to go as soon as the cork is pulled but develops beautifully with time in the glass as well as overnight.
Dolcetto d’Alba Monte Aribaldo 2016 14.5% $18
Juicy and succulent with fresh fruit vibrancy, this wine shows its south- and west-facing vineyard exposures in its fruit-driven charm that sees only steel and cement not only to keep its liveliness intact but to emphasize it! Everything about this wine has an irresistible youthfulness, from its spry acidity and its pithy finish to its oodles of blueberry and sweet cherry fruit.
Barbera d’Asti 2017 14% $18
Supple and slurp-able, this forest berry beauty is an easy charmer. For a Barbera d’Asti, usually a lighter style of the variety, there is an excellent core of fruit density and plenty of concentration – attributable in part to the 14% abv. The mild, almost cuddly, tannins get a nice structural smack from the vivid, mouthwatering acidity. This will hold well for several years and might even develop pleasantly for a while. So, the challenge will be to keep one’s hands off it. Were I able to rate exclusively on pleasure, this score would soar - enjoy! (There’s no evident new oak here as all lots are aged in older or larger casks.)
Moscato d’Asti la Serra 2017 5% $16
This delicate and charming Moscato d’Asti brims with delicate donut peach, yellow plum and sweet persimmon. The palate is light and drizzle soft with tiny bubbles coupling with buoyant acidity to give a clean, sweetly fruited finish dusted with floral tones.
Drink: Through 2019