Beaujolais Crus for Summer...Just Know They Rarely Indicate "Beaujolais" on Their Labels

Beaujolais Crus are delightful summer wines. Their exuberant, raw fruit flavors and pronounced, minerally undertones deliver a vitality in the glass that offers a delicious compliment to more complex and equally fresh summer fare.  

However, Beaujolais Cru shouldn't be lumped in with Beaujolais or Beaujolais Villages - much less Nouveau styles - as a pairing for picnic fare and summer barbecues. Granted, that's not done very often as the word Beaujolais usually doesn't appear on the front label of these bottles - only the cru name is listed. Still, it's worth knowing that in advance of purchasing.

The Cru distinction is important for producers and consumers alike as the ten Beaujolais Crus account for only 25% of the region's production. Tucked into the northern portion of the appellation, they stretch for only 12 of the region’s 34 miles. To a large extent, the Crus are surrounded by the Village level vineyards, except for a bit to the east that is basic Beaujolais. The rest of the basic Beaujolais wine comes from the "Bas" or the southern part of the appellation. 

The Beaujolais Cru vines mostly sit in granite soils, but there are also volcanic, limestone, marl, scree, clay and alluvial soils. Between this and the varying elevations and aspects of the Crus, not to mention individual producer styles, there is a terrific diversity of wines in the Beaujolais Cru category.

90
Château Thivin 2019 Côte de Brouilly 14.1%
This intense Gamay pushes right out of the glass. Bold - even lavish - in its black cherry and blackberry flavors, this generous yet structured Brouilly is delightfully layered in complexity. Eye-opening acidity accompanies the robust yet rounded tannins that filter into the medium finish. This has an overt, energetic verve to rein in its high-ish alcohol level. This was much appreciated with grilled veal chops and eggplant gratin.
Drink: 2021-25 

88
Château de Javernand 2018 Chiroubles Les Gatilles 12.5%
Tucked under the earthy funk on the nose are some pretty strawberry and red plum fruit aromatics that then glide onto the palate. There is a hint of licorice here, too. Medium-bodied with reserved tannins but vivid acidity, this is made in an easy-going style. The flavors are straight-forward and the finish is quick, making this a cru wine for early drinking. It is a delightful contrast to the Côte de Brouilly, and it is très Chiroubles in style. This matched nicely with a chilled beet gazpacho.
Drink: 2021-22