Two (Not So) Chillable Reds
I purchased these bottles recently as they seemed like solid solutions to my recent cravings for chillable reds to fight the heavy heat that has settled on New York City. Plus, I had not tasted the Onabay wines in a while, and I've never tried the Machine Breaker Pinot. I found the latter intriguing with its six years of age, and, apparently, it is the only vintage made of that label. Why not a little vinous adventure while the city is still crawling back to vague notions of normalcy?
Alas, I was reminded that lighter styles of red at gentle prices don't necessarily work with a chill. After all, both of these wines had some stuffing. That is, the chilly temperatures - cooler than 55° F cellar temperature, more like 45° F - tamped down their complexity. These chilled reds wines were pleasant, but they weren't showing their best. So, I kept the wines for five days, trying them every day at chilled and cellar temperatures. As ever, I enjoyed the learning experience!
89
Machine Breaker 2014 Pinot Noir We the People Unfined & Unfiltered Willamette Valley 13.1% $25
This fruit comes from "French footed", or non-grafted, and unirrigated vines. Opened on the same day as the Onabay, it tasted best on Day 5. So, my note below is from Day 5. On Days 1 through 3, the wine felt balmy with fruit and tasted rather straightforward, despite the fact that this wine is approaching its sixth birthday.
On Day 5, this wine showed an enticing earthiness that evolved into toothsome complexity with air. The bramble fruits had become darker and more intense with intriguing notes of black licorice and tree bark. The medium-bodied palate is intriguingly textured with very polished but highly-delineated tannins and finely-delivered, integrated and supporting acidity. If you track down one of the remaining bottles (I found mine at Astor Wines & Spirits), I suggest serving this at cellar temperature with a gentle two- to three-hour decanting. While it is unfined and unfiltered, I did not notice any sediment.
Drink: 2020-21
88
Onabay Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Franc Côt-Fermented North Fork of Long Island 13.3% $19
This co-fermented combination of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Malbec exudes youthful freshness. It was disappointingly straightforward on its first night, surely due to my determination to drink a chilled red. It's too bad that I was out of Wine PrO2 cartridges, the most awesome, gentle and real aerator (the inventor prefers to call it a "proactive decanter") that I have ever tried. And, I've tried a lot of wine aerators. It opened up a bit more on Day 2. By Day 3, it was really compelling with only a light chill, about 52° F. Below is my Day 3 note with a slight chill( 50° F) on the wine. I suggest a vigorous decanting or trying out the Wine PrO2 on this!
This juicy smelling wine sings with licorice, underbrush, black plum and Marasca cherry. It's exuberant in the most welcome way. The squarely medium-bodied palate shows a rugged character with good mid-palate girth balanced by crackling acidity and chunky, chewy tannins. The finish is quick but the boisterous bramble flavors leave a moreish final impression. This is a great summer red!
Drink: 2020-22